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Yes they do Ian ;) You guys need to consider the TCCS is designed to use a pretty wide variety of octane gasoline...it's timing/fuel maps are pretty conservative as a result to make sure the motor does not detonate. The knock sensors are there to limit damage if detonation does occur...it's...

Bomberillo - Is this going to be an ongoing build thread? If so, it does not belong in this section...please advise.

Guys - The USDM TCCS is tuned for the EGR timing/fuel map wise. The countries where the EGR was not installed are different...i.e. Japan for example. Running without an EGR risks mid-throttle detonation under load...there is more air in the A/F mixture with no EGR. Northwest - the best...

If you are using ARP studs, make sure you chase the block holes. Don't forget the RTV on the two places on the top of the rear timing plate too. Speaking of the rear timing plate, was it machined at the same time as the block? (I hope so) The top has to be even or just slightly below the...

It's impossible to say without seeing the car and this is really not the place for this. Thead closed.

Rebuilding the block is going to require a complete break-in: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993 The only true synthetic Castrol sells in the US is the European Formula 0W-30. It says "Made in Germany" on the back label. Tons of info on it in the Lube section...

Yes it is. A highly refined Grp III oil with a superb additive pack...it's not a PAO or ester synthetic though. Beats Mobil 1, the other common Grp III oil, hands down IMO. You won't go wrong with a Wix filter ;)

Are you rebuilding the bottom end? (i.e. crank, rods, pistons and associated bearings) LOL...Castrol European Formula (German Castrol) is one of the least expensive true (Grp IV or V) synthetic oils...especially compared to Red Line or Amsoil at $9-10 a quart. I've been able to catch GC on...

It was the Cometic (and rebadged Titian) that had this problem, most new versions have been corrected. To be sure, just lay the MHG on the block deck. If any rivet touches the deck surface, remove it.

Ahhmmm...has anyone took a look at the link in post #7? It is a structural steel bar capable of supporting 1100 lbs. That fits between the outside of the shock towers along the fender. I have actually used this same bar to support a 5M engine...it is more than capable of doing so.

Gaboon - Here's the support bar I used when I had to replace the subframe on my Cressida. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR47C Used a 6' screw jack to help adjust motor position when I lowered the engine back down on the mounts. This is a good time to check/replace the motor mounts...

Zazzn - John's post pretty much spells it out. Since you seem to have all the info you need, you seem to have your game plan laid out, and do not want to accept any input from anyone that disagrees with your view...this thread is closed. It was amusing while it lasted...and, will be the last...

Zazzn - the only thing that has been established is you will not listen. ABS would in fact fix the problem...the guy that designed these brakes even said so (among others). Your attitude toward me, both in this thread and in the PM you sent me is/was condescending from the start...a passive...

:runaway: ^^^ LOL...be careful John, you don't want to attack or belittle anyone. You're going to be accused of being an arrogant asshat with an attitude if you keep talking like that ;) (blunt facts are not what some of these guys want to hear - it's offensive after all)

^^^ No it doesn't...and with that, this thread is done.

Considering what you've been told and your responses the past couple pages...it's highly amusing watching you flip-flop around. (sorry if it offends you) Perhaps you should call "Steve" up again and you two figure out what to do ;) (that fits your unique view of these brakes and their...

Simple Green at 50/50 works pretty well. Don't leave it on the aluminum parts too long, but it will be fine for the block and steel surrounding the engine.

::focl::

Dude - this was just asked: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99283 We don't need another 7M vs 6M crank thread right now.

The 7M-GE section is the place for NA-Turbo swap threads. Thread moved. Read the stickies in this section.