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Pull the EFI fuse (>30 sec) to reset the ECU. Check for codes again after you run it. Check the accordion hose again for cracks/leaks. Make sure the hoses to it are secure. Have you checked fuel pressure? Good to see you got it running ;)

It's a better idea IMO...you take the tranny thermal load off the radiator.

I agree, but he's not throwing a code...a bad AFM connection should do that.

Since this thread was created vs just working it out between the guys in question: I too have had a positive experience buying parts worth big $$$. He also did machine work for me...a top notch job.

Nash - It became clear to me long ago you are going by whatever it is you "believe" regardless. It is your choice, but be prepared for that choice to be corrected when it does not match up to the facts. You can remain ignorant if you so choose. A ZDDP additive is not necessary for when you...

Correct on all, plus several more ;) The only reason I mentioned it is you've posted about the adjustment a couple times now...it's really not the primary factor for the atmospheric stalling issue. Anyway, the OP has stated he has a stock BOV that is not leaking. Therefore, the BOV is not...

Alec - Adjusting the BOV correctly has very little to do with this issue. Since all BOVs dump coming off boost, even one that is adjusted properly can cause a stall if it is vented to the atmosphere. It's a function of the way the TCCS works, not the BOV. Some motors handle the momentary rich...

You are very wrong...you make it sound like a BOV to atmosphere will cause damage. It will not. Yes, you will get a momentary rich spike between shifts or when you let of the gas and the BOV opens. What you left out is the ECU will compensate...on an auto tranny, it will compensate to the...

An IC piping leak can cause all kind of mischief....even off boost. Check the accordion hose for leaks...air entering the system post AFM - pre turbo will cause problems. The rubber connector on the TB often is cracked as well. The CPS should look like this with the damper/gears lined up...

1) Yes 2) Yes 3) ECU will handle idle

The real difference in brands is the base stock and the formulation of the add pack. Castrol European Formula, Amsoil and Royal Purple are PAO base...Red Line is an ester base. The difference is these oils handle heat far better and do not break down easily due to the long chain molecules...

For a Grp III synthetic, it's the best out there IMO...the additive pack is superb. Beats the pants off Mobil 1. ;)

Why don't you try to PM him vs starting a thread?

Eric - You can blame the oil and you can think I'm blowing smoke up your tailpipe, but there is a thing called a coincidence. Fairly common actually. I can tell you with 100% accuracy that it was not the oil, unless you let it get low enough to uncover the pick-up or your pump failed...

Zazzn leaving out a piece of the puzzle...noooooo. Can't be true :sarcasm: (It's so much easier to blame the oil)

Far from it actually ;) You've got a habit of presenting the facts. No question here either!

^^^It's because you don't want the crank to touch the oil in the pan. Another SAE paper on why you don't want to change your oil too often: https://shop.sae.org/technical/papers/2007-01-4133 Of course, what would the SAE know? :sarcasm:

It amazes me sometimes :3d_frown: Now THAT is a really great idea :sarcasm: Reason emerges from chaos :)

LOL...Rich, don't you know the facts are irrelevant on SM? All that matters is what you "hear" from "respected members" of the community :biglaugh:

I'm using Zerex G-05 HOAT coolant (50/50 mix)...superior to the Toyota stuff IMO. Having said that, Toyota Red is a phosphated HOAT and works well in the 7M. Here's another alternative: http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/zerex/antifreeze/105 Also a phosphated HOAT...might be a...