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Thanks guys ;) Look closely at the icing chart and you will see there has to be a specific combination of conditions for icing to form. I would not plug the hole at the back of the head. If you look at the above diagram, the banjo bypasses coolant to the water pump when the heater is not...

ARP stud nuts use a 14mm 12 pt socket...previously used a 9/16" 12 pt. ARP went to ISO standard a couple years ago which requires heads to match metric threads.

And I've had enough...good luck.

Jumping T1 and TE1 puts the ECU into diagnostic mode...you do not want to run this as a normal configuration. Dude...just set the timing like suggested numerous times. Your idle sounds fine.

Zum means it is very likely that the coils are not the problem. Get a timing light, jump the diagnostic block per the TSRM, and set your timing to 10 deg BTDC. Then remove the jump wire and check timing advances to ~14 deg.

It sounded pretty good to me on the video and the RPM is good. Might need to be timed...and it sounds like valve lash needs to be set.

For the record, I DID NOT say it was a good thing to do...I said it would not hurt. Big difference Dude...stop putting words in my mouth. I think it's a waste of $$$ for our cams. As for your "proof", I thought so...as usual you spout shit out and can't prove it and/or have nothing to base...

Am I hearing an echo? LOL...:D

The seal for the center galley plugs are moulded on the center cover. If you removed it, the hex plugs need a washer on them to seal like Hommer said. Sounds like your covers might be warped. If the bolts are not holding tight, use an internal star lock washer between the bolt head and the...

Good to see ya Mike :drink1:

Check for ECU codes before you reset. Drive it and check codes again after the reset.

Stock gap I assume? What's the idle RPM? Did you check for ECU codes? Check timing as you said...be sure to reference the TSRM for how. Check for vac leaks and any cracks in the intake accordion hose.

Some of the nicest fabrication I've seen. Worthy of IJ's shop :D

Only guy here that's stressed out is you. Based on these posts, you're going to blow a gasket in the very near future. If you don't like the rules, don't post and don't show up here again...it's your choice.

Guys - JZ swap questions do not belong in the General section. I'm getting kinda tired of moving this stuff and will start handing out infractions if you don't pay attention to where you post.

That oil is probably the best Amsoil makes. A heads up, when I gave it a try there was a significant increase in valve train noise.

Speak for yourself Nash...the only one displaying a self richeous know it all attitude is you. I post about oil/additives because I know about the subject based on fact/science vs all the hearsay BS you spout off and never back up. Last I checked the 7M and JZ series motors don't have...

Ian - The reason being is viscosity is a lot higher cold for the heavier weight oils.

Go ahead...give me credit if you would. (edit: I see you did - Thanks!) There is one thing you said that is not accurate: "Since you are a 10w-40 your start up will be the same viscosity as a 10w-30 oil. It only thickens at higher operating temps." A 40W multigrade will almost always be...

LOL'ed at "You've been on SM too much" ;) You are pretty much on the mark, but there are valid counter points. At 180K mileage wise, a synthetic is not going to do a whole lot to help wear wise...the motor is on it's down hill leg. It will help a turbo motor IMO due to the heat a syn oil...