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What do you call "perfect idle"? You model TB has an air bypass screw on it...the one that is suppose to be full closed from the factory. Wouldn't surprise me if the PO screwed it out to "improve idle" vs fixing it the right way.

It won't, unless the block off plates for the EGR ports are leaking ;) If you re-built it, why didn't you reinstall the EGR and O2? You really do need both. If the fuel vent line from the tank is just hanging in the engine bay (not plugged), you are asking for a BBQ...the charcoal canister...

Tell me...What is "technical" about your question? Pay attention to where you post...thread moved.

How would a gear oil heavier than MT-90 help with thrust washer issues? Especially in a cold climate? Regardless of your visual inspection of the synchros, no way I would run a gear oil with friction modifiers meant for an LSD in a manual tranny. BTW - your original statement was this...

Man...what a mess!

Ummm...Heavy ShockProof is a differential oil...it is a GL-5 and has friction modifiers in it's formualtion. Not good for a manual tranny at all. I can see using Light ShockProof in a manual tranny, but MT-90 is a better option IMO for a drive train running 400+ HP due to it's higher...

I'm not 100% sure Nash, but I remember the cap being machined as well....it's been a couple years since I installed it. After I broke it it, I run Red Line 75W-90 in it...there was some chatter with the 1st oil fill (Ford dino + modifier), but that has pretty much went away with the Red...

Yes, 10 deg with E1 and TE1 jumped in the diagnostic block: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/setting_timing.aspx When the jumper is removed, timing should increase to >12 deg...usually ~14 deg.

It usually just separates from the drive gear.

I'll bet it's timing...do this: - Make sure the #1 cylinder is at TDC...place a small diameter wooden dowel or chopstick in the spark plug hole. When it gets to max height turning the crank damper, you hit TDC. - When the above happens, the damper should be pointing at "zero". - Both cam...

Eliminates the AFM...you'll need an intake pipe for the filter. You can vent the BOV to the atmosphere (no issues) and put a small filter on the ISCV. All speed density requires is a pressure and temp sensor to make the flow calculations for the ECU. I would start by looking in the Piggyback...

It's not the FP ;) The MAFT Pro can convert to speed density...no more AFM.

On that note, this thread is closed.

That turbo will flow a lot more than any CT26 upgrade...and, more important, at a lower psi. You've also removed any IC and piping restrictions. Considering fuel cut is determined by air flow past the AFM sensor (not psi), you could easily be at max flow psi on that set-up for the Lex. FYI...

11F3H here ;)

Can you be more specific than "64mm turbo"? Stock IC and piping?

Figured it was timing...with the cam gears pointing at the index marks and the damper pointing at zero (#1 piston at TDC), the CPS should look like this: It's pretty easy to get the CPS off by a tooth following the TSRM procedure.

The outside case was machined, not cast...it wasn't as pretty as the Kazz though. From memory, the clutch discs were not carbon, but there were more of them vs stock. The new TRD LDS might use carbon discs...not too sure on that one. Mine is one of the original ones for the Mk III I was able...

Yep - You'd be surprised how much flow will go through a tiny passage ;)

Air Force here, but I'm an officer...didn't go to the same basic training at Lackland AFB TX you would attend. I can tell you: expect to be deployed vs the Navy's 4-6 month sea tours. The AF (for most fields) is more tech oriented...however, the Navy is a close 2nd in that regard. Mechanic...