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Considering we have an entire section for engine swaps like this.... (where I moved this thread to) Might want to read the search tutorial in the intro section. Pay attention to where you post in the future.

Yep - just expounded on the description a little.

Damn Duane...like the guys said, lucky it happened when it did ;) Got a TRD LSD myself...it's a stout piece.

There is another possibility: The crank drive gear has 2 thin washers tacked on both sides of it. If one broke loose (I've seen it) the belt will not guide correctly and chew it up like yours.

Your pressure was never bad ;) Yes, that guide is what I am talking about. Not difficult, just time consuming.

It should still be good...I would still check to make sure it didn't jump a tooth. Sure you tightened it down? You should always do a tension adjustment after 500 miles or so.

Any answers you get will be pure speculation. We seriously have enough of these threads. Be happy with what your "butt dyno" tells you. Thread closed.

Recheck cam gear and damper alignment at TDC...you might have jumped a timing belt tooth. Especially if you did not replace the tensioner spring ;)

Even if the heater control valve is fully closed (which it never is), the hot coolant has a less restrictive path back to the pump. It improves flow no matter how you look at it.

There is no check valve in the stock 7M oil system. Not sure were you pulled that one out of your arse, but if you don't know for sure...DO NOT post. Mondo - A hot oil pressure of 20 psi at idle and 40 psi at cruise is good. Fix your exhaust leak. Set the correct valve lash clearances.

One side of the modulator routes to the VSV...the other side goes to the EGR valve to allow it to open/close.

Is the the big Koyo or OEM size? Did you cut the jiggle valve off the T-stat? Take it out and test it by heating up a pot of water using a thermometer. Might be stuck part open...half way up the gauge is a bit high actually. Mine goes to the 4 o'clock position with a CSF radiator and...

Yes No Yes It allows the charcoal canister to purge to the TB when coolant warms above a certain temperature.

That is correct for the FP up VSV...in Houston I would imagine you would need it. For the EGR VSV, that is what the ECU uses to shut the EGR off above ~4000 RPM. You do not want exhaust gas recirculated above that.

And what is technical about this question? Pay attention to where you post. Thread moved.

The block deck needs to be machined for a MHG, just like the head. Or, it can be hand lapped with the motor in the car using a lapping plate and diamond paste. If you scrape the old HG off and that's it...use a OEM HG. I would never sand the block deck...if you do, there is a very high...

You could always try to educate yourself before you comment ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=216396&postcount=5 HKS being the "best" comes from the fact they are the only makers of the stopper design. It is superior to the bead type, which they also make along with...

Nope, not starter ground wires...they are the ECU ground wires ;) Might want to make sure you clean them up good and get a solid ground...unless you want all kind of ECU weirdness. Concerning the "clean-up" for those vac lines...I would not just randomly disconnect and plug those. They...

No it's not ;) GC gold has been around since early 2005...the previous stuff was GC green. They are basically the same oil (PAO based), but it can be argued green GC has a better additive pack. Both were made in Germany. The version pictured above is not the European Formula, it's...

Be careful Mark...have a safe trip and return! DT is just sweet like that ;)