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Lmao.....give up Grim ;)

Pretty sure I have all the "facts" I need for this train wreck of a thread. Time for me to exit and leave you with all the other great advice you've been offered thus far. Should be rather interesting. BTW - welcome to my ignore list.

Considering that petro engineers design all oils to viscosity spec at 100 deg C, it's no big surprise ;)

LOL...And that's a good thing for the OP ;) Bye! Back on topic.

Yes I can...it will not make up for lower compression pistons in a NA motor...I thought it was pretty clear when I said: It's also becoming pretty clear that you don't have a clue what advancing ignition timing does and the dangers involved in doing so. Why do you think Toyota put a higher...

Ok smartass...you have not been around here long enough to hear an AFM called a MAF more times than I can count. There is a difference and they have different names for a reason...AFM is not a general term like you said. Just because they have the word "air" in the acronym doesn't make one big...

Your answer was pretty basic and I was talking to the OP. I wasn't insulting you. If I was, you would damn sure know it ;)

Pig slow, especially on acceleration...advancing timing is not going to help. You do realize it's more to it than just slapping pistons in a block I hope.

Bzzzz....WRONG! Educate yourself: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf The terminology is important, especially on this car.

Cutting power to the ECU will dump all learned values, but in this case that's really not an issue. Have you considered wiring it to cut power to the fuel pump?

You got yourself a tack driver ;) (at least the ones I've shot)

Pern - likely it was just what happened while the motor was sitting in the junk yard all that time...at least that's what I've seen, especially on the 1J motors. John - Oh yeah it is ;)

So, your mechanic has the equipment to measure harmonic vibration...must be a shit hot mechanic to have that kind of equipment ;) (or have an extremely sensitive ass) So, please explain why Toyota would feel the need to install a damper (that is more expensive to make) on the 7M from the...

Turn screw out = more bypass air through the AFM = leaner condition. Balance FP with this screw to get the AFRs where you want.

So, you put it back to the 30 psi you started with and it went away? You are still too rich at WOT...I would drop FP to 28 psi. You are looking for a balance. Try turning the AFM screw all the way out on it's engagement range.

Solid aluminum crankshaft pulleys are NOT something you want to run. Read this: http://www.dinancars.com/bmw/technial-info/the-dangers-of-power-pulleys-and-understanding-the-harmonic-damper shaeff edit: Here's a cached version of the link above, as it's currently dead...

Especially when you don't have a clue what your talking about ;)

Suddenly you gain the ability to compose a complete thought...who wrote this for you? Your mother? Based on your demonstrated ability and intelligence, you couldn't possibility be capable of processing information more difficult than that presented to a sea urchin. I may be a tech orientated...

A PAO synthetic does a great job, but it happens over time. This product seems to work: http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html 1) Follow the instructions exactly. 2) Don't use an expensive synthetic. Disclaimer: I've never used it, but a lot of people have with success. Personally I don't...

Try reading what the guy said...That made sense to you? First he's using an HKS filter, then it's a K&N filter, now we're asking about Royal Purple filters in the context of Japanese Denso filters? Like I said, it doesn't make sense...I don't "guess" like a lot of people around here. I go...