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Concerning this special, I'd want the Mobil 1 filter. Both K&N and Mobil 1 filters are made by Champion Labs...pretty much identical construction except for the end nut on the K&N. The Mobil 1 uses a synthetic media that is superior to the media used in the K&N.

Keep something in mind: The only true synthetic (PAO) Castrol markets as "Syntec" in the US is it's European Formula 0W-30. All others are a Grp III hydrocracked dino oil. Before someone asks about Castrol Edge, read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96813...

This is with FP at 25 psi? What are your AFR's at idle & cruise? The dashpot mod Brad did will not do anything to help this.

What?!?! You mechanics said not to use RP oil because it might block the filter? That doesn't make sense.

Judging from my '89: CPS.................Harness Green.................Red Red....................Blue (probably your "green") Tan (or white?)....Black Yellow................Yellow You hooked them up wrong...the colors do not match (except for yellow) from the CPS to harness side ;)

Bent rod? Highly unlikely...don't take it to that guy again, he's trying to soak you. Vs chasing your tail: 1) Check ECU codes 2) Check your timing 3) Check for a boost leak as MDC suggested. (refer to the TSRM for 1 & 2) There is no such thing as "limp mode"...there are however...

Correct for an uncut head.

Remove the lower bracket bolt and try to pivot the alternator. That might break it free.

K&N is a Champion Labs filter...they also make Mobil 1 and WalMart SuperTech. The Denso Japan filters are well constructed with a resin media...better than a K&N IMO.

No, it would not.

ARP bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs when used on an aluminum head.

Which is external on an '87-'88 ECU. BTW JJ - Learn something new everyday ;)

Codes 24 and 42 are gone according to post #7 ;)

The only relationship for code 51 to the AC is if the button is pushed it powers the AC amplifier and will cause the code...this is normal. Foot depressing the gas pedal will cause a code 51 as well...again, normal. Make sure the AC switch is not depressed and check again. If the code 51 is...

You left out that the Denso Japan filter are very difficult to come by in the US (that was in the same paragraph in the filter thread). Pretty much invalidates this comment.

I would downshift through the gears to keep vacuum high as possible during the coast down. Speed? Who cares...it's the RPM that matters. You want to shift through at least 4th to 4000 RPM. It's not highway speed that's a problem, it's extended periods of the same RPM. You can get on the...

Hint: It wasn't the Seafoam ;) JJ knows what he's talking about...your experience is coincidental at best. That makes you a member of the 10% club that got lucky and that's all it means. I'm pretty sure HKS publishes a RA spec for their MHG's for a reason.

Drive it a day or two to let the ECU relearn. Stay out of any sudden jump from cruise to boost (especially if you have no EGR installed). If it stays like this, bump FP 2 psi higher. Does the Lex still have the adjustment screw installed? Is it in the factory position or have you...

With the Lex/550 combo, it depends....drop it down to 25 psi (vac on) and pull the EFI fuse for a reset. Drive and monitor AFR.

The only time a BOV vented to atmosphere causes a rich condition is when you let completely off the gas petal. Air (which the ECU expects) that would have been reinserted back into the intake is missing...a momentary rich condition occurs. At idle the engine can't handle it and can stall. A...