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Who - you're welcome. I've switched over 2 cars with mileage in that range to GC from conventional and did not have an issue.

Most common: Red Line (ester - Grp V) Royal Purple (PAO - Grp IV) Pennzoil Platinum is a Grp III hydrocracked oil, but it is so highly refined and has such a good additive pack that there is little difference between it and a Grp IV. My son runs this oil in his Civic (5W-20)...his...

NAPA Gold is a Wix filter ;) Not a chain store, but readily available. Just keep in mind it's not hours per say that limits an oil life over a time period...oil needs to get to ops temp per my post above above. Daily driving is a different story.

Then something didn't fit right clearance wise. If the water pump is not leaking coolant from the weep hole, there is no need to replace it. I have the CSF radiator...fit's perfect in all aspects.

Exactly the same thing ;) I would pull the EFI fuse/spark plugs and crank the motor till oil pressure shows on the gauge. You want to do your runs within the 1st 20 miles or so...avoid idle for long periods.

Which is fine with a good shroud ;)

The TB port for the BVSV is ahead of the TB plate so it does not suck fuel vapor at idle...that could affect idle RPM and/or idle AFR. The BVSV is mounted on the T-stat housing...it's operation is based on coolant temp. The early motors did not have the BVSV. This is an idle emissions...

A bigger oil cooler that's T-stat controlled will take some of the thermal load off the coolant system. Bonus is you also get rid of the pressure bleeding stock filter head.

Champion Toyota.

This really belongs in the Other Engine Tech section...thread moved. BTW - the 747 does rolls quite well actually ;)

If it's at a normal idle and just cuts off = I'd be thinking electrical. If it cuts off after normal driving and cuts off when you go to idle (i.e. let off the gas pedal) = BOV vented to atmosphere. What is your idle RPM? And, is it stable? Like I said, check your ECU codes.

I wouldn't change the fan clutch unless it needs it...same for the shroud. Consider a dual core radiator vs OEM for additional capacity. T-stat = OEM or a Stant SuperStat and cut the jiggle valve off...test for correct opening temp before you cut the jiggle valve off. Make sure the hole...

Not a boost leak. Check your CPS wiring/connector. Also, check ECU codes.

Zambini - My apologies...this guy is getting my attention from a mod perspective. Will the oil drain line fit right on the hole in question?

An additional quart just might help ;)

There's a reason you are getting flack from the knowledgeable guys here, but you don't seem to "get it". I'll give you a hint: It's not because anyone of us is a "hater" or "having a bad day". It's because you post either BS or a bunch of generalized useless crap in the Tech sections. I've...

It didn't fix the problem...you are giving yourself way too much credit. Poodles is correct, it's a band aid at best. FYI - it doesn't matter how may times you apologize. You posted the wrong FP numbers in the Tech section...it's a simple as that. The rule is simple...if you are not 100%...

kracin - while there is some truth in what you are saying, the reasoning is incorrect and you talk in general terms. It greatly depends on the environment the car is operated in and when it is run, does it get the oil hot for a sufficient amount of time to burn off contaminates (primarily water...

First of all, you need to do some research on how open hydrodynamic bearings work. I happen to have an article on bearing failures: http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/1590_engine_bearing_analysis/index.html What is happening to you is the oil is being sloshed away from the pick-up...

From one of my posts a few months ago ;) Grim is correct, it's impossible.