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With heat expansion, would not surprise me.

In my experience, (including fixing BHGs, complete coolant drains, replacement of heater cores, etc) I have never had to "burp" the system. It has always eliminated the air on it's own over several days. That also includes other Toyota cars that use a similar heating system. If air is getting...

Guys - Not everything is because of a BHG. Think about this: Air would have no impact on whether the heater control valve opened or not and air stands no chance of blocking coolant flow to the heater core. In addition, coolant is fed from the back of the head to the heater core. You would...

Yep. The EFI fuse kills both ignition and the injectors. It's a better choice ;)

Leave the ECU temp sensor unplugged and drive till it warms up. See if there is any difference. BTW - this should set a code 22. After all this you will have to clear it.

Some of the early models didn't have a BVSV...look at this: The line from the top of the TB routed directly to the charcoal canister.

Ok...it should not have done that! Pull the EFI fuse for a min, replace, and try it again.

So, 5 min or so for the gauge to read normal ops temp? Next time the car is full cold, unplug the ECU coolant temp sensor and start...might take a little longer to start. Note what the AFR is as the temp guage gets to ops temp.

Do you have a coolant T-stat installed and what temp is it? What is your coolant temp gauge doing during the 20 mins?

You're driving this heavy ass car without power steering? Not what I would do, but whatever. Cap both nipples on the valve to keep crap out of it. Cap the fitting on the bottom of the accordion hose and the hardline above the crank damper to prevent inducing unmetered air in the system.

First of all, knock off the text messaging abbreviation and no caps crap. It's hard enough to understand what a lot of you guys are trying to say. Look at this diagram: The line runs from the small 90 deg fitting on the bottom of the accordion hose. The valve is called "Power Steering...

Turbo side of the engine block.

Also: - Pull any ECU codes - Check your timing per the TRSM

Well, you need to read and understand the whole thing ;) To adjust AFR on the stock ECU, you need a piggyback like the SAFC. Or, go with a full up stand alone EMS. It's an AFR gauge...a wideband O2 is much more accurate that the stock narrow band sensor. If you want to know more than...

I'm not going to ban you unless you keep the abusive language up. I was not being rude, I was being blunt...I have to correct crap like this all the time and the number of PMs I get because of misinfo like this fills my inbox. Something you don't have to deal with, but I do. I will agree...

There's no way the CSI can be responsible unless it's leaking or stuck open...unplugging it will not determine if it is or not. The CSI is only active when the starter is engaged. Have you checked ECU codes?

Ummmm...did you make this up or are you smoking something good again? A failed (or unplugged) ECU sensor will cause the ECU to go into one of it's fail-safe modes. The ECU will substitute a temp of 80 deg C for all calculations. That temp is the lower threshold for the normal ops temp range...

You could always go with a 3.9 LSD.

The Articles forum is a wealth of info ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14358

Was this engine rebuilt...i.e. the front timing cover removed? Reason I ask, was the plug for the main oil channel on the front of the block, under the timing cover installed correctly?