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And I told you why you don't want to do a couple things that always get suggested. You're welcome. :3d_frown:

A JDM ECU or standalone EMS will work. Bumping up FP is only going to cause other issues.

Good for you...the USDM ECU is tuned (fuel and timing) for the EGR. Removing it causes additional air to be introduced into the cylinders. It risks detonation at part throttle under load...i.e. going up a hill and entering boost in the 3000 RPM range. Removing it is dumb...no matter how you...

Make sure the tensioner is set correctly and the retainer nut torqued to spec....check it again in 500 miles or so. You're welcome ;)

I truely hate this kind of thread. It almost always does not end well. Guys start yanking off all the "unneeded" parts and then the "why is my car running like crap?" threads begin. To the OP...I highly suggest you be very careful what you take off and how you reroute things. If you don't...

33-40 psi vac off 23-30 psi vac on <---this is the one that matters - it's the normal ops condition. 25-27 psi is what I usually see. So, you are not running a MAFT Pro on speed density? One more time, any codes? (I don't make a habit of asking questions more than once ;))

Why are you running FP so high? Do you have a wideband to confirm AFR when it cuts out? Injector size? Any ECU codes?

A distributor will do the exact same thing if timing to the cams/crank is off...swapping from a CPS will not help. Do this: - Confirm the #1 piston is at TDC by inserting a small diameter wooden dowel or chopstick in the spark plug hole. Rotate the crank damper until the dowel peaks out at...

Phosphate HOAT just like Toyota Red ;) http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/105

I was wondering about ya Zum :D

Ahhhh...a really early M series motor. Didn't know about that one...learn something new every day ;)

^^^ Sort of correct. The gas cap has a check valve in it that allows outside air in, but prevents flow out. I know a couple guys that have used the A1000 with no problem on a stock cap.

And, why do you want to do this vs a CPS?

Look at this: http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page15.html The rail type are on the top...the P/S coolers will work too, but will not do as well a job due to their smaller size. Like I said, there is no high pressure on the return side of the system. Std stainless braided line will...

I believe IJ is doing exactly that on his current build, except he is having the Motec control the fans. And, the fans (obviously) blow vs suck ;)

There are two versions of the stock cooler: - '87-'90 (iirc) is jut a simple loop of tubing above the IC - '90+ has the same loop, but fins like a proper cooler were added to increase efficiency. The cooler loop is on the return from the rack...it does not see anywhere near the pressure the...

This one?

I'm pretty sure it was the '88-'89 Celica GT-Four (ST165) with the 3S-GTE engine. The later model GT-Four RC (ST185) also had a W2A IC.

I've heard the same thing, but never observed personally. A low boost flutter is a heck of a lot better than a stock BOV stuck open or one that causes compressor surge.

As much as I dislike WalMart, the SuperTech oils would be a better choice before I'd go Coastal (LOL). The problem now and days is most of the gear oils are going to the GL-5 spec. Most (not all) GL-5 oils contain friction modifiers...modern manual trannys can handle it. The R154 and W58...