Search results

Understood. But you still have the knocking sound right? Were they able to help you track down the sound at StreetSports?

Yeah I know:nono: I baggie it, take pictures, mark it with tape, run copies of the TSRM.

I'm confused!!! Are you talking about the intake "y" pipe or the exhaust "y" pipe that you have the leak? Were is the leak you are talking about comming from. You should be able to hear it with a hose to your ear to locate it.

Is there going to be a group buy???

I agree with cuel, you save it now then you'll have a spare with some damage, let it go until it blows, you'll be looking at a lot more damage and possibly a scrap motor.

Maybe you ought to find another IJ, you know how us old guys memory gets sometimes:biglaugh: I think they call them "senior moments" now, ummm I forget now.:nono:

Try after you get the motor up to temp., turn the heater on and see if the vsv has moved up on the switch. You might try pulling it up to see if it is working. Mine did the same thing and when I pulled up on the switch it let warm water in the heater core and you could then feel heat comming out...

:yelrotflm Works for me.

I would think it may knock when you try to start it if it was loose. But he's saying it's rpm related. I'd do what IJ suggested to narrow down the cylinder.

It's Muratic Acid. Sold at any store that carries pool supplys, Home depot even carries it. Be careful with it as it will burn you and do not get close enough to inhale the vapors.

I believe you said in a earlier post that you had coolant somehow leaking around the intake. If it was leaking around the small return line on the intake manifold, you definatly could have sucked some coolant into the intake. Which means it probably got into the oil, compromised the bearings...

Did you get a chance to check your's out cuel?

Fun to go fast, but the faster you go the faster you have to stop, very important part of working with any kind of car. There's always somebody on here that can help you out with a problem or try to get you pointed in the right direction. I've had my Supra since 88 and still don't know all there...

Progressive means the more they compress the stiffer they get. I have Eibachs with kyb's, for DD and some track they are OK.

I think it's the return line from the CSI back to the head, and it will leak if the manifold isn't tightened from the inside to the outside 50% of the time.

Glad to hear.

Welcome to the club, sounds like you're having a lot of fun at school.

What have you done to it since you just got it up and running? And how many miles do you have on it since then?

I have a built NA, check my mods list and it will take a lot of $$$.

I think the air silencer that he is talking about is the big black canister on the intake between the AFM and the TB. Sometimes they will get a hole in them on the under side next to the header from the heat. You should be able to track down the leak with a hose to your ear. Or you can get a...