Personally I'd pull the head but that's just me, my reasoning is the Timing case gaskets are longer than a fresh block and need to be trimmed flush once the case is installed.
Combine that with you're trying to Seal both the front of the Pan and the underside of the head with RTV when sliding...
Nope you'll only "see" the slip using the method I described earlier.
I tapped my PWR rad for a proper draincock and fitted an extension hose to make drains easier/cheaper.
Been following this on the other Forum, as I said you need to verify that the timing case and block are the same height.
Sounds like the guy that assembled the engine needs a :kickinthenuts:
If you have some way of adjusting the timing curve you could possibly make more power at the same boost level using the better fuel.
If not it's a waste of $.
You could do the bulk of the work then take the Hub to a shop have them press the new bearings in then YOU tighten it up and stake it so you know it's done right ;)
This approach will save you a heapOcash and you will have confidence that it was done right.
(Man I'd HATE to drive that car at...
Hate to burst your bubble but if you hit 30 Psi accurate on pump fuel with stock or near to stock compression ratio it DID knock you just didn't hear it.
OP: If your Damper has slipped and you set the timing to 10 degrees it may be wrong, running retarded WILL cause your symptoms......
210 at cruise is DAMN hot add any sort of load on top of that and you're going to have a problem.
Pull #1 plug
bring the piston part way up by turning...
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