Dave: We're talking Compression as I can't see even the best Tower bar doing diddly for rebound ;)
Yep you can weld some new steel in to patch the holes then coat ot with a tank sealer, I'm using KREEM it's a sealer a lot of Harley guys use.
I'd just tune the same way I do for any fuel Chris.
Electric ears and a Knock Sensor on the dyno adding boost/timing till gentle rattle then back it down a couple of degrees for safety.
Wonder if you're just running the pump out of fuel and the injector duty cycle is maxed trying to compensate?
Whatever it is it's NOT safe I'd be turning the boost down some and WOULDN'T run it that hard in the real world,90% is nuts.
Dave: The Mk4 style bar is what I mean by a double bolted non hinge design instead of the stupid Placebo Bars everyone else sells ;)
I'll drop it all now as this discussion has been had here quite a few times and usually ends up with ill feelings.
(my analogy is near enough for this topic...
Sorry Dave on this one I have to disagree.
"IF" the strut bar had 2 bolts on each end it might transfer some of the loading but they don't so "IF" there's deflection in the Tower the Strut bar is acting as a hinge and not transferring anything anywhere.
Grab a cardboard box unfold it's...
Cool always wondered what it actully does :)
So nothing that would be a showstopper if disconnected.
(seen a couple of JDM cars here that have had it snipped at the ecu so Cruise still functions)
Are you confusing Surge With the BoV venting?
I ask as Surge will happen if you ease off as there isn't any Vacc to pull the BoV open but if you lift totally the BoV "should" be fully open.
Not really sure just what the ECU uses Spd1 for John but I'd be surprised if it's much at all as the car will still drive and shift if you break a speedo cable ;)
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