<< one of the few that have ran both cranks identically prepped in the same engine weeks apart with the crank being the only change due to a communications breakdown with my crank shop ;)
6M Snappier acceleration
7M Smoother across the rev range until 6500 then there was little difference...
Often wondered if a Dog's sense of smell is so many times more acute than ours WTF does canned Dog Food have such a strong smell.... then again Dogs will eat shit so... ;) <awaits Will's next thread along those lines>
While at first glance an undertray seems like a simple part in true Toyota fashion it's a damn complex "system", while they're available new I'll continue to buy factoy ones.
"inspection" is key, no use line boring a straight block that has equal size holes, I'm with Rich on the ARP's I figure what's better fresh ARP hardware or 20 year old Toyota bolts.....
My last build was on a brand new block but as I had a new set of ARP studs here they went in.
And being common knowledge fools STILL crank the boost on unopened 7M's then come here pissing and moaning about how crap 7M's are and how they're doing a 1Jz swap.....
ONLY way a 5M makes sense is if you already own a killer engine that's been built with the best parts and it's fresh enough...
Cold side close to the TB is the accepted "norm", think about what you're trying to do with the valve.
If it vents on the hot side you're reversing the flow of the full capacity of the IC, get back on the throttle and it has to change direction again to head back to the TB.
Vent on the...
18"x9" all round here, in hindsight if I were to do it over I'd go with 17's and use tires with more sidewall for a street car that has to live in the real world.
Not all LSx Coils are created equal, the later stuff is much hotter than the early coils and you need some way to adjust the dwell in the ECU of choice but that applies to any "dumb" ignitor.
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