Saw the same sort of funky curve comparing my standalone to the Toyota 86.5 gauge, by the time the gauge say's ouch it's all over and you've entered the "annealing zone".
1 chase bolt holes in deck
2 screw studs in finger tight
3 Dab of moly on each washer and each stud thread and stick the washers in the head
4 slide head on
5 dab of Moly in each nut
6 torque according to the pattern in the TRSM and ARP's specs
As I told SV in a PM grab a head bolt (EVERY 7M owner will have one laying around) they're known to be M12x1.25, lay the theads against the bolt you want to ID if they mesh it's 1.25, if there are more threads it's 1.0 pitch less it's 1.5.
These are the 3 common pitches.
Had to shorten the springs in my TurboSmart Type 3 Bov's to stop the T04z surging above 12psi on trailing throttle, also ran a -5 line to a T between both valves so they get a good shot of boost to help keep them closed on boost.
There is a logical order to diagnosing an issue based on the symptoms....
Jumping all over the place is a waste ot time and money, you may have noticed I'll give advice in a thread then if it's ignored and the more traditional idiot approch is adopted I never post again.
If the amplifier in the Climate control unit is dying/dead you won't get hot air even with the valve bypassed as the HVAC unit has an internal mixer door that's controlled by the amp.
I think most of the fancy stuff isn't all that effective on boosted engines and is more an NA thing, I tried a bunch of "things" and never saw enough of a benefit to make any of it worthwhile.
Have a look how Ron makes his and that's pretty much the template I'd follow it's K.I.S.S.
The 7M dampers have a habit of spinning on their hub giving a false TDC, as I said earlier check this first as EVERYTHING is based on this..... :nono:
If not it's the ashtray.....
I may as well pull something out of my ass and guess ..
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