I tend to be very conservative when I tune and always have a good safety margin in my engines to allow for a dud load of fuel if I'm 1000Km from home.
I also monitor EVERYTHING and on the new engine with be using active knock sensing/control for the first time.
Never been a big fan of...
Measure axial and lateral float in the bearings/shaft, check the general condition of the fins on both the compressor and turbine wheels is about it.
If either wheel can contact the housings steer clear of it.
There are a lot of variables but yep that's near enough, anything you can do to lower the intake charge temp helps keep it out of det but there are hard limits involved, you can pull timing but you get to a point where you would be better off dropping boost and adding timing as it makes the car...
Depends on the engine stand legs, you want at least 1d thread engagement in the block, 1.5d is better, "d" being thread diameter.
eg: If the leg is 60mm you would buy bolts with 75mm under the head.
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