Up to you but for critical components like the AFPR I prefer genuine as nothing kills a Turbo engine faster and more completely than a lean out under boost.
Looking into each plug hole bring that cylinder up to TDC and check the tops of the pistons for carbon, any that are clean will indicate a BHG.
(borescope makes it easyer but you may not have access to one)
Interesting to see that another manufacturer has screwed the pooch in the rear subframe design process....
Have to wonder if it's an age/loading thing as tire rubber gets better and the steel suffers from corrosion/stress?
You might be able to have them fitted with k-line thinwall broze inserts, if it needs new guides it's often cheaper to find another head that's within spec.
As always this depends on what the initial hardness test reveals as it's a 100% waste of money if the head is soft.
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