Put that way yes but to get a chubby and pay extra just because it's a Turbo A engine is foolish, there were minimal differences none of which haven't been eclipsed by modern technology, if you were restoring a Turbo A car and wanted it to be correct then again Yes.
Here's an example, I paid...
It's embarrasing that someone has bought this up, Stopleak is something people and used car salesmen use to get rid of a problem NOT a product you'd use on a car you wanted to keep... :nono:
Total waste of time and money buying one of these things if you don't have a genuine Turbo A car to put it in.... :nono: why pay a premium for 20 year old technology that's been surpassed 5x over the years...
Pull #1 plug, grab an old chopstick and sit it on the piston then turn the crank with a ratchet and wait for the choptick to stop them compare the mark on the damper to the one on the timing case.
The pic I posted was Braided Stainless RUBBER hose :(
Went to pull it off the barb and it tore off in my hand, have since changed to braided teflon hose as rubber isn't even close in it's temp rating and WILL fail in time, this improves slightly if you have a long extension on the Turbo drain...
Thanks Dude it's cool I'll order one here and pay the extra....
(sucks that I can buy the same parts cheaper in the US even with shipping fucking greedy importers here)
Ordered overnight from Sydney ;)
(so it might be here in a week)
I ran 2 different W2A systems, one PWR 4" barrel with a GT3040r with a .63ar turbine this gave INSTANT response and drove like a 5.0L V8 but choked badly over 5500rpm, next system was a 6" PWR barrel with a GT3540r 1.06ar, this was good to 550rwhp before choking and the IC running out of flow...
To back up JJ I use standard Oil proof low pressure hose on the return there's very little pressure in there.
(My PWR Steer filter has a plastic body and it's installed in the return)
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