LOL as an example my car has run many hours but hadn't been driven, yesterday was it's first trip out and half way through the run I had it in boost a bit so the WG Pipe and Wrap got hot, pulled over with smoke pouring out from that corner of the engine bay :aigo: it was the wrap and DEI Paint...
LMAO yep know exactly what you mean!!
I hooked mine up to a 5v line initially so could only get 4.98v out of the PWM channel and it was unacceptably heavy for every day driving, I was starting to consider turning the pump faster to lighten it up when Rob suggested an 8v line and bingo...
Only measured it to 120 Dave, these are the stock settings from a Gz20 soarer I figure it at least gives a starting range to work with then I'll trim mine in the real world for the "feel" I want (something you can't do with the stock controller) :)
I went this way for a few reasons, one being...
Very welcome!
Another thing I noticed using it is if it's a warm day the spray nozzle will block a LOT.....
I had a few "spares" so kept a couple soaking in paint thinner to swap in, I found if I regulated the spray pressure by only half pressing the button it would go for much longer...
I'm using it to seal the Header wrap on my engine/exhaust, I'd tape off the flanges on their mounting surfaces and any parts that need a machined surface to mate.
As I said in my PM use the new Ecu to run it all you need is an output that can do a Speed/PWM table.
DON'T leave it connected too long it'll fry the Solenoid on the Rack..
--------------------
Speed KMH/MPH----------Voltage at Solenoid
0------------5.4
20/12----------4.7...
And this is done, twice people have tried to help you and you've thrown a hissy fit like a little girl....
Here's an idea if you're not willing to listen to advice when people try to help you go elsewhere to ask your questions.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.