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becauseican (because i can) (randy, haha) divorced downpipe. it has a divorced wastegate. check it out. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398 pics here -shaeff

1) dont repost it, it'll get moved by a moderator of this section 2) dont type in all caps, its considered yelling, and nobody likes getting yelled at, and its really annoying :) 3) to answer your question, (MIL light = ?) i'm assuming you mean the check engine light? check the grounds to...

go in the engine bay. right near the battery there's a little box that says 'diagnostic' on it. open it up, and jump terminals t1 and e1, (or te1 and e1, depending on year) turn all accessories off, and turn the key to 'on'. watch the engine light. it'll blink in a sequence, with 1 second breaks...

i love my DDP :drool: its amazing. and i'm still on the stock n/a exhaust. :( -shaeff

sweet. i'm always worried that i'm going to come off sounding like a dick. :drink1: i'm willing to bet he has a turbo block then, because all N/A's came with only one KS. i wonder if he has turbo pistons too... lower compression etc... you now have me curious haha. -shaeff

either it was a turbo block, or (dont take this wrong, as i'm not being a dick) you dont know what knock sensors look like. (again, dont take that wrong, i'm not questioning your intelligence!!!) :icon_bigg i demand pics!!! :) -shaeff

thats terrible... it sucks to think a 'member' of our community would treat others like this. it really is disheartening... i'm sure crap like this is what drives people like dr. jonez away... -shaeff

haha, thats so true! i think i ended up using flywheel bolts for my center support bearing on the drive shaft, because i somehow lost the two bolts meant for it. i put two washers on each, and it worked just fine. after a month and a half of driving the car, i found them, right where i left...

yeah, you should be just fine, so long as you havent overheated the motor or anything... if you havent had issues with it, my guess is that its still good to go. it wouldnt hurt to check it w/ a mechanics straight edge. -shaeff

LMAO. moderator love! :greddy: -shaeff

heh, rodknock wont give you a code 52. code 52 is only if the sensor is bad, or if the wires are shorted out. when the sensors detect knock, they retard the timing, and enrichen the fuel mixture. yet another failsafe designed by toyota. and to answer the previous two questions, all N/A's...

check your codes. my bet is that you have a code 52. (knock sensor/s) my car backfired like crazy when i had code 52. -shaeff

if this happens when i get out of college (cant work more than 45hrs/week when in school, get too tired :( ) as in the summer, i'm definately in! -shaeff

at radio shack they have a little butane powered soldering iron. get it. you can reach almost anything with it, and its portable, doesnt use electricity, and comes with a blow torch attachment. now for my answer, and this is my opinion: personally, i solder everything. i hate electric tape...

^true, i got mine for $35 shipped. -shaeff

check your ISC (idle speed control) and your TPS (throttle position sensor) per the TSRM. -shaeff

as previously stated, prepwork is key. i used a tiny little bit of JB on my guitar, on which the string places 33lbs of tension, and it was a TINY amount. playing shows with the band and swingin' that sucka all over the place, plus traveling and whatnot, it hasn't broken yet... make sure you...