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origionally posted by KirkMKIV: The reason its not a good idea to vent to the atmosphere, is because the AFM reads how much air being ingested in to the motor threw the turbo. when the bov dumps back into the intake track the metered air remains consistent with what the meter has already...

thats friggin excellent! haha -shaeff

how about your cam cover seals? if they're leaking, it'll go right down into the spark plug area, and seep into the cylanders... easy fix if thats the problem. if it is, then do the camcover bolt upgrade while you're replacing the seals! -shaeff

here's the exact link, so you dont have to search around. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/engineerrorcodes.html -shaeff

the idle should be at 650-700rpm, regardless of idle screw. it should be rock steady. you should not ever have to touch that screw, which is the main reason that it's capped off in the first place. the CSI (cold start injector) time switch might be to blame for the bad cold starts. i'd check...

did you check the fuse? -shaeff

although this sounds like heat soak, i doubt it is. does it still run choppy after, say 10 minutes of driving? if so, its not heat soak. after the boiled gas is out of the fuel rail, the car should run just fine. that sounds like heat soak. -shaeff

i had a similar encounter before i blew my tranny. at the bridge in kingston, there are two toll booths. i went in the left one, a black mustang GT in the right. he definately had an exhaust, because it sounded real badass. both of our little toll pole things went up at the same time, i coasted...

if i remember correctly, outofstep proposed this a while back. i dont remember what the conclusion of the conversation was, but i'd imagine that you'd have to chop a bit of weight off the rear of the car after reducing the front weight so much, as we're already 51/49. perhaps he'll chime in...

check the ground wire going from the coilpacks to the motor, and the grounds under the intake manifold. my guess is that you should get ready to hardwire the CPS, though, wait for some more feedback... -shaeff

check it out, the last post in the thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1515#post1515 -shaeff

off the top of my head, paddlenbike and grimjack both have aftermarket gauges in the stock location. if i remember correctly, they match the stock cluster very well! -shaeff

check all the grounds you can find. especially the little one going from the coilpacks to the motor. check with a multimeter for continuity. a bad ground can cause a miss. check and double check them all. also, just check the wires to the CPS as well, just for the hell of it. does it have...

trust me, you dont want a new one. the dealership will absolutely rape you for just one. get a known good used one. PM lagged, as i know he has a few to sell. -shaeff

yes, code 52 is either shorted wires, or a bad knock sensor. either you didnt do it correctly, the connector is bad, (easy to replace anyway), or the KS is dead. -shaeff

ok, i dont know about the r154, but on my w58 the filler hole is on the driver's side up right on the side of the tranny. the shifter hole trick is pretty straight forward. all ya gotta do is pull the trim (center console), unbolt the boot around the shifter, then unbolt the four bolts for...

good, make sure you get a pre '89 engine harness too. well, its always good to have the A/C fans plugged in, as they turn on at a set temperature, and we could all use a little extra cooling. that being said, mine has never worked. wiggle the tach board back and forth, make sure you unplug the...

the wiring behind the dash shouldnt be a problem. the stock boost gauge is horrible. its incredibly slow to react. stick with your gauge cluster, and do the tach rewire from www.4cefed.com, OR, get the electronics from a turbo tach, and pop it in. it takes a total of a half hour to do the entire...

still, boosting 19 psi on injectors that are at least 13 years old, and havent been cleaned is just asking for a lean condition, in my opinion. thats not a joke.

there are things called 'easy outs'. they're basically a drillbit with a reverse cut to them, so as you drill into a broken screw/bolt, it loosens it and backs it out for you. what you need to do is center drill the screw first, then use the easy out into the now existing hole. (using an easy...