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Why do I bother..... :nono: You asked a question I gave you a course of action based on 30+ years of automotive experience and now you're discounting it out of hand without even trying....

Should be able to get it just about anywhere, I.E. Walmart Not your Bud's fault shit happens, I coat most parts like that with Nickle antiseize on assembly to prevent this sort of thing happening.

JZ valves with the heads cut down to be +1mm over 7M ones, JZ are longer stems and might put you within the range of Shimless buckets. 1SZ-FE 1000cc Echo 13751-23030 5.12 13751-23040 5.14 13751-23050 5.16 13751-23060 5.18 13751-23070 5.20 13751-23080 5.22...

Soak it in PB Blaster being careful to NOT get any on the pads/disc then try a small easy out type extractor. (Piston maybe? still not correct though the word you're looking for is "Calliper")

Other thing is you have to be careful mixing it as it's quite toxic to peoples ;) I had the mix close but soon as I added the Bug remover concentrate to the washer bottle it tipped it over as its main ingredient is taaadaaaa alcohol.....

There is an intercooling effect when using the Meth but I like the simpler to tune/safer Water injection route after seeing some funky AFR's with Water/Meth, also keep in mind 50/50 is still flammable, I found this out after testing a batch on the floor of the shed, I was using the washer bottle...

I ran shimless in my 7M. Expensive and clumsy if you need to adjust lash.

Injecting Meth is sort of a bandaid if you run out of injector/fuel pump and still have some overhead left in the Turbo, if you have enough fuel system to cover the air flow then you need to pull fuel from the Injectors to compensate for the extra "fuel" i.e. Methanol. This can get a bit...

Figured as much Saif, I wasn't being a prick or a smartass just don't see much call to try and run race parts on street engines due to the crappy bang/buck ratio ;)

Through the port on the top of the Plenum, tighten the screws then Stake them in place so they can't ever back out, it's common practice for Butterflies in engines.

Underbucket Shims are a way to do it but it does add mass to the valvetrain, much better than undershim shims though ;)

All part of the "Longevity" issues I cited at the start of this thread, Ti valve wears on the Hardened stock seats, valve recedes and closes the Lash, if you don't swap in new shims the valve hangs open a touch as the clearence closes up and torches the valve, end of engine. :( Jump on HPF's...

From memory the screws are staked in place so need to be drilled out for removal of the butterfly and shaft.

Personally I'd NOT use the Meth, get the AF's as close as you can on Gas then Add straight water as detonation suppression only. I used a pair of Electric Ears to find the incipient detonation threshold with my 7M then tuned the water injection to that, adding boost/timing/water as needed...

Wouldn't be revving that too hard :(

What would the benefit of that be Saif? Ti retainers and Keepers are fine just don't see a need for half a set of Valves..

LOL no probs, they actually made them heavier/thicker/stronger, oddly it started with the GE blocks before the GTE's though, possible explanation was the Group A engines were all cherry picked GE blocks without Squirters so sort of makes sense. M engines are quite an old design that was...

::popcorn::

Happy to have been of assistance, we don't have "Search Nazi's" here, the staff stomp them soon as they start their shit, now and again if someone has made 0 effort to find something very basic I'll spank them a little but generally I'm happy to answer questions, the time people take to rant...

87t=light 93t=heavy Heavy block pictured IS my 93t brand new block from Toyota..