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heh, my old w58 tranny (r.i.p.) never had one of those. i never even knew that something was supposed to be there til i got my new tranny. i'm keeping it there. -shaeff

i'd do the tranny oil change and the differential change at the same time. you may as well, right? it should only take about an hour or so, at most. that being said, right now i'm running mobile 1 synthetic 75w 90. i'll soon be switching to redline 75w90, as i have heard NOTHING but good...

if i were you, i'd DEFINATELY replace the 90* hose at the back of the head, and the hose that comes off the small steel one on the driver's side of the block, goes up through the Throttle body, then through the ISC and back in through a nipple on the lower intake manifold, and into the head. if...

for *most* hoses, it's just better to cough up the money to the dealer. it fits perfectly, and will last you another 10-15 years... -shaeff

1) NEVER trust 'pre-gapped' spark plugs. a gapping tool/feeler gauge is like $2 at the local auto store. just get one! 2) autolite 3923. they're damn cheap (like $2.80 for a two pack) and work very well. (these spark plugs are where the saying "you get what you pay for" does NOT apply;))...

for the first week i had my supra on the road after the turbo swap, i ran open BIC ddp. it was amazing. :) it sounds so throaty. i love it. it is the sex. -shaeff

yes the tranny is compatible. look at the motormounts on the new motor. if they're the same as the ones on your old motor, then you can just use the ones it came with. if they're different, use the ones off your N/A motor. -shaeff

i just use an impact gun :) -shaeff

thats not entirely true. if you have a stock BOV (bypass valve, actually) chances are at 15+psi of boost, it's going to leak. leaking BPV's hinder performance, so an upgraded BOV on elevated boost levels can "add power" because you're no longer losing air through the BOV. (i agree, but i...

check out jay marks/champion toyota in our vendor's section. call them, they have wicked good prices! -shaeff

this is in the wrong section, and will soon be moved. i would use FIPG on the oil pan. it's much better than RTV. :) -shaeff

for critical parts (nice to see you here on SM, i rarely go to I-supra now because it's a ghost town :() i'd go to the dealer. think of it this way. buy it once from the dealer and have it last another 10-15 years, or buy it several times from autozone and have it fail until you surpass the cost...

taken from the sticky at the top of the 7m tech section. "informative links" http://cjsupra.kendra.com/Hexupgr.html -shaeff

die loki die! haha just kiddin' man. welcom, reign. thats a helluva turbo you got there :) -shaeff

if you're just going for 400rwhp (same goal as me :)) then the lex will do just fine. i'd go with the lex, and it's cheaper. well, the MAF-T is a good alternative, as well. if i did my setup over again, i'd go MAF-T. -shaeff

jeffy poo needs a new lip! :( god i love your car... -shaeff

honestly, i feel the same. that's incredble. -shaeff

one more suggestion for ya. i'd take those studs out, (especially if you have all of them in) because you have to remove them in order to get the washers on anyway. i put one in each end of the block, on opposite sides to allign the head properly when it was placed on the block, then took them...

yeah, i'd go with a new one. it's really not that expensive. and its good insurance. :) -shaeff

makes me wish i painted my block, but the motor i just (almost) finished building wont be in there for long. maybe a year at most before i pull it again and put in the motor i'm going to build next summer. ;) -shaeff