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lmao! haha. (i get it ;)) -shaeff

i concur. i thought i was having radiator problems, but it was a pinhole, yes, literally a pinhole in a coolant hose. water would piss out under pressure, and air would go in, and super heat the coolant (supposed to be a sealed pressurized system) then spike my temp gauge and blow my radiator...

from what i've read, i agree with Ck. -shaeff

thats a common misconception. look at the recommended RA values of the titan motorsports headgasket compared to the cometic. off the top of my head, the titan is like an RA of 10, wheras the cometic recommends less than RA of 50. -shaeff

another vote for Cometic and ARP here. :) thats what i'm using. (except i'm using studs) -shaeff

i'm 21, my girl just turned 19 two weeks ago. :) she's the bestest evar! -shaeff

the longer the lines, the more likely you are to get boost spikes. mine are just long enough to reach comfortably. -shaeff

here ya go. i've got only 3 washers in there, as i also have a manual boost controller. :) -shaeff

reasons why recirculation is better: 1) it doesnt bleed out metered air, causing stalling and running rich. 2) it helps to keep the turbo in spool while shifting reasons why atmospherically venting is better: 1) it sounds cool, (if you're into that type of thing... i'm not) -shaeff

well, after several days of piecing things back together, it runs. i have some pics, but i didnt have access to a digicam the entire time, so there aren't that many. however, here's an update: my dad decided to help me put the motor in last second before he left for a 4 day vacation. (sorry...

hmm. i checked the TPS before i put the TB back on. it checked out perfect. i didnt see/hear/feel any IC leaks, but i'll surely check. i'm going to re-check the base timing too, as i've heard that if it's like a tooth off it can cause the same thing. keep 'em comin'! -shaeff

ok, here's the scoop. i'm in a hurry right now, so i'll be able to reply later tonight. when parked, i can rev it up to about 3500 rpm if i keep letting off and hitting the throttle again. it coughs and sputters alot. no codes, and i tried the electronics from my old AFM. no change...

get an HKS SSQV, and recirculate it back into the intake. :) best of both worlds. -shaeff

dean marcum had the N/A setup on his turbo car. all the work that is entailed to make it function properly isnt worth the small gain it gives. if you're going to put that amount of work into it, you may as well double the amount and put on/ build a front facing intake manifold... besides...

good info. very good info. thanks fellas. looks like i'm sticking with the stock fan for now. i'm not concerned with the power loss, i just like the idea i had for the electrics. (i had a setup in mind where i could unclip them and just slide them out for more room to work. but, whever, screw...

you smear it right on that crack where the timing cover meets the block. hi-temp permatex should be fine. -shaeff

the residual oil left in the transmission is such a menial amount compared to how much you're putting in, that it really makes no difference. just make sure you let it drain for a good 10-15 minutes. -shaeff

this is a bit off... (i'm not challenging anyone, i'm just stating facts) fact: part time jobs pay more in california then they do in many other states. fact: jobs in many states with a lower cost of living pay less than those with a higher cost of living (california) i live in upstate...

not to hijack the thread, but i've been torn on the whole electric fan thing. this is the way i see it: at idle, the electric fans are spinning faster than the stock clutch fan. now, isnt this where you need the fan the most? at idle? you're only running at about 700rpm, and the electric...

Capacities: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/a/A_35.html -shaeff