The common failure point I've seen with the OEM core is in the Crease of the tank that seperates the sides, one BHG and it swells the end plate and this in turn splits the material at the crease leading to a leak :(
And here's the point.... to some 1 or 2 stickers is Rice... to others by definition ANYONE that owns a Jap car is a ricer, I have to laugh at the sad individuals here that just don't seem to get it... :nono:
Expand your minds some and stop pointing and laughing at anyone/thing that's...
An oddity with Turbo engines is they love Load, lower diff gears always made my cars slower in the low gears and as Dave has noted it's just more wheelspin to contend with.
New Spring on the Tensioner, rotate the crank a couple of turns to set the belt pull the breaker bar back a little so the non tensioner side of the belt is tight and allows the spring to pull any slack out of the belt and tighten the tensioner bolt to 36 ft/lbs NOT 1 ft/lb more or less.
Only way I could get it to work well was run the engine at 3000+ close the solenoid then shut the engine down so you had a full high pressure charge the next morning, problem with this is I preffered the accumulator flush Oil through the turbo after shutdown to pull the heat away from the core...
While it's "just a car" it was still 13 years of hard work effort and $$$ so there was an emotional connection after losing it that way, also there were a LOT of good times associated with it, "Love the Beast" is the closest I've seen to explaining our brand of insanity :)
I was overjoyed to...
Might do better with a momentary button to kill spark/fuel while cranking if you want to prime, I found cold/thick Oil isn't keen on moving out of the accumulator on it's own..
(had my MoTeC set to crank xx times when temp was lower than 60c)
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