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i got a used Greddy oil catch can. it has two ports on the top of it. i got the pipe from my old N/A motor that connects the valve covers into one tube (had one already, but one came with the can), ran that to one nipple on the catch can, and the other over to the accordian pipe. that way...

Stoke T- check your transmission gear oil level! same thing happened to me, and it turned out that all my gear oil had leaked out and stuck to the bottom of the car. (from the tailshaft seal) not a drop of it went on the ground, otherwise i'd have caught it. less than a month later, my...

that's wicked. :) your car is mad clean, too! -shaeff

yes. 550's at 500hp is getting *near* their limit. rule of thumb: always have more fuel than you need. ;) -shaeff

haha, i would have to agree;) i dont think my parents and neighbors would like it too much when raw, flaming gasoline was pouring out my tailpipe ;) -shaeff

excellent info, as always. damn internets;) that makes more sense then having them grounded to the intake manifold :p ! thanks for clearing that up! i'm off the the "injector driver" thread. :) -shaeff

jetjock, the only reason i said to check those grounds at the back of the head, is i believe they're the injector grounds (read that several times) and without them making a solid connection, the injectors wont open regardless of whether there's fuel in there or not, as they would not receive...

brent, i know you make your own decisions. i just read in another thread how i believe it was dziuggy who warned you, or proposed, per se, that you should apologize to the community. regardless, off into the depths of the forums as stated already... -shaeff

FIPG all the way. screw RTV in this case. i use FIPG for almost everything that i USED to use RTV for. :p -shaeff

for shits and giggles, i'd check the ground wires at the back of the intake manifold with the eyelit connectors on the ends of them. jump the fuel pump using +B and FP, and try starting it. (that'll run the fuel pump) other than that, it should start even with the AFM disconnected, and...

i thought fuel cut was when "too much" air enters the AFM, and the ECU knows it's too much air, doesnt think it can supply enough fuel... i wouldnt necessarily say something's "wrong" with the fuel system... it kindof sounds misleading. -shaeff

also, here's some information on RED LED numerical displays for the climate control unit. i know that's of interest to several people, including jimi87-t and i. did some googlesearching, and ran across this. it appears that it would work in our climate control units: www.digikey.com P/N...

live and learn bud! :) we've all jumped the gun before. no hard feelings here. generally, so long as one admits one's faults, especially outright such as you have in this situation, most will be forgiving. even though you might have been warned to apologize, it still takes a big man to do so...

thread moved to proper section. and it doesnt really matter now that you already got them put on and balanced. ;) for reference, for kumho ecsta supras for my old sawblades, i spent $99/tire from tirerack.com a year or two ago... but that was for the tires alone, shipped to my door. -shaeff

dcr, that's awesome! if i didnt have about a $1000 credit card bill coming in on supra parts, i'd pick some up now, too. i'm doing mine in red, too. let me know how it comes out! i'm really interested. i dont want hotspots, at all! if those produce hotspots, i guess i'll just get regular red...

hey, i see that you were battling against uneven light distribution (read: hotspots) how about these, they're a bit down the page. WLED-x5 Wedge based bulbs http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html here's the discription: seems like they'd produce a more even light pattern. more...

-shaeff

no, sir, i believe it is RED that is less stressfull to the eyes. BLUE is the MOST stressfull if my memory does not fail me. -shaeff

i dont believe it until i see proof... i'm not questioning anyones credibility, but read jeff's post... -shaeff

lookin' good! :) -shaeff