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(woof ;) )

Welcome to SM John, I'm also an Aussie and know of you and your Car!

Very welcome JB :D

FIX THE DRAIN FIRST.... FUCK this is frustrating, there may be NOTHING wrong with the Turbo.. :nono:

"If" you can hook up all that extra torque down low ;) (I couldn't without TRAC)

..... Replace the 90 fitting with a 45 and reroute the drain line so it's always heading downhill and not horizontal like it is in the pic.

Thoughts are it needs to go downhill...... The Oil coming out of the Turbo when running hard is brown frothy crap that doesn't flow well at the best of times. Sort of lucky it's happening now as it would have smoked when pushed hard leading you to believe there's something wrong with the...

Lots of factors could effect it, Oil viscosity/pressure any crankcase pressure and so on, I wouldn't run a drain like that ever, for me a minimum of 45 degrees off the Turbo. If it's in line with a Conrod where it enters the Pan can cause smoke as the splash/oil thrown off the rod is enough...

My guess is the 90 fitting is allowing the Turbo to "flood", even more so if the inlet isn't restricted.

So the red fitting is the drain?

What size is the Turbo drain and how is it routed and to where?

"Slipping the clutch" was a simplified analogy, I realise they multiply torque but only do so until the stall speed is matched/or the Convertor locks up then they go 1:1 like a manual trans. In a high stall the slip period is longer and gets the engine into the meat of it's powerband as most...

3000 will be nice, much quicker off the line than the stock TC.

Bit of a Hint don't run it with the E-Brake pulled on like the you did on the Dyno ;) kidding, great # on a CT!

DD is fine as it's a lockup convertor, I just finished a 1400+ Km round trip in my current project car which has a High Stall in it and it was fine, Think of the TC as slipping the clutch in a Manual car to get the engine into the meatier part of it's power band. My old 7M had 550ish Rwhp and...

Oil change isn't hard at all in a "rebuildable" shock Leigh! :) You can buy many different weights in shock Oil it's just a matter of finding one that's mid range on the clicker so you can dial up or down from there as needed. When I had my Koni's built they used a shock dyno to match the...

LOL so I've been doing it wrong all these years huh?? :evil2:

The Tein's if not leaking are a good shock, I'd just refill them with a WT oil that puts the available adjustments back in the middle of the range, 11ty7 adjustments is just more scope to get lost when tweaking and just not needed in the real world.

I shoot for mid to high 2's for around the 500rwhp mark, anything looser is a bit hard to maintain the oil wedge at low RPM. Plastigauge if used correctly is a good final check but no substitute for a mic and someone that can read it, the shop "should" when asked provide you with measurements...

"Beware the Leg Humpers" ;) Welcome to SM!