All depends on the material, Could be from a black on the tanks to a charcoal on the fins and the welds are going to be different again.
I wanted mine to be all Satin black so anodising it wasn't an option.
Logic tells me the bigger pipe would go on the Hot side of the IC, smaller on the cold side due to the cooler air being denser but having said that I always went equal size for ease of material ordering and one size clamps and couplers.
There is a critical speed you want to stay below for xx...
Buy a can of aerostart, fire up the engine let it idle and in small short bursts spray the aerostart at the manifold to head join and anywhere else there's a gasket or seal, if the RPM changes you've found a leak.
Ditto, fully expected it to be laggier but didn't work out that way and just made it harder to find traction in low gears..
If you're chasing a genuine 600rwhp I'd go for 3" straight off.
Modern Turbo's now flow much more than even the best of the Old School units could so you can get away with running a huge IC and 3" pipes with no extra lag, the beauty of Big IC's is two fold, they flow better due to having so much internal volume and they're a huge heatsink so even if they're...
I'd still be checking the phasing very carefully when the new bearing goes in, yet to see one that hasn't slipped a little.
(my NA shaft was out badly so it's not a power thing)
$20 and your first born ;)
Most people do the bypass when they go to a bigger pump as the limp home restrictor won't flow enough for the pressure reg to work correctly.
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