Remove Cams and Sparkplugs
Plug ALL the holes in the head that lead to the block with rags
Turn #1 so the piston is about 2" down the bore (Use a chopstick to verify)
Get some soft non fluffy rope then feed it into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole
Turn the crank so the piston...
3rd, 5th doesn't really matter but yeah that's the general concept ;)
Not coast it has to stay in gear so it's engine braking.
It's not really going to hurt anything, you might end up fouling a plug or 2 if it's really bad and as long as you keep an eye on the oil level it won't "break"...
Doesn't have to be huge just means you can make the engine generate a good vacuum on the way down, you get the same effect on the flat backing off from speed.
Find a big downhill, hit it at speed closing the throttle on the way down, if it's stem seals soon as you open the throttle again you'll see smoke, helps if you have someone follow to confirm.
I have everything ready to go then wait till it's tacky then install it and the head, 0 issues doing it this way.
If you're using ARP Studs it helps if you glue the washers into the head with grease before dropping the head down over the studs.
Tiny crack = can't pressurise so it's going to overheat/boil...:nono:
The 7M cooling system is so damn finnicky you're playing Russion Roulette by driving it.
No probs, as far as the AUX bearings go there aren't too many shops that can install them correctly... :nono:
I don't get this as it's NOT rocket science and there are only 2 of em..
Give it a light rub with some 1200 wetNdry paper using WD40 or crc 5-56 as lube, clean off and depending on how long till it runs spray with 5-56 or for long term coat with grease.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.