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If you have big enough injectors for the power you are making you will not have any fuel cut issues (with a maft).

Give me a call on Mon please, my number is listed. Thanks!

A fancy shop price usually goes along with the fancy shop.

We have been really busy with all the projects we are working on so sometimes a ballpark price is all we can give without writing up a complete invoice, looking at your car, looking at the parts you have already, and talking with you in depth about what you want to do. I am on the forums almost...

I beg to differ. If the code popped up all of a sudden, then obviously something went wrong. If the throttle is stuck or the tps screws are loose, then mabye the tps is ok, otherwise the tps is sticking or has a bad resistor pad inside and should probably be replaced.

Yeah, that is what it is supposed to do but if it has 200k miles on it I would replace the tps anyway. They can be intermittent and stick when they get hot or cold.

Used to be a lead installer for the Good Guys and worked at an electronics store selling test equipment for years. Now I use it mostly to do engine harnesses for all the 1j, 7m and 2j swaps we do. Plus I still do some rc car and plane stuff and other electronics projects.

Nice! Close, but I got the Fluke 76 with capacitance, freq counter and 40 ohm scale. :icon_razz haha JK, the Fluke 77 is a nice meter that will live longer then we will. LOL

I give myself the award for the cleanest maft pro and zt-2 wiring job on a brand new engine harness. :naughty: I also get the award for the most hours of sleep lost while wiring up the cleanest wiring job I was previously self awarded winner of. :icon_conf Damn, I better go to sleep.

TPS go bad very often. If you adjust it and still can't get it right it might be stuck or just worn out. Take it off and make sure the spring returns it easily and it turns freely.

You still might be crazy :icon_bigg

Haha, that's true.

It basically comes down to the fact that running coils in parallel will decrease the spark energy. You need one ignitor output per coil, unless you use a CDI ignition box with much higher voltage then 12v.

Most of it is here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=299359

I have not had a chance to try it on the cracked coils yet, but I will let you know. It's just an insulator, you could use hose if you wanted to. I might make a insulator kit with high temp silicone hose for 1j/2j coils.

I don't think so, there were a bunch of pissed off people when I didn't release the diagram at first, then after I made it available everyone lost interest. I think the only way it would happen is if I made a kit but there is not enough money in it to be worth the time it takes to make one to sell.

I already did this on a set: 1" shrink wrap

WOW!:aigo: That is freakin awesome for 11psi!

Don't let the Mrs. catch you doing this step: The VHT paint needs to be cured to stick properly.

Sorry to dig this up from the dead but I have something to report. I thought that the miss I was experiencing was from a voltage problem, but it was not. Check this out: So now I am more confident then ever in my design. 4 of 6 coils had cracks in them. When the engine is under heavy...