Search results

Best thing you could do with your money is first replace any hoses that look like they might fail, drain the coolant and put some Toyota red coolant in it, and check for any codes that have been stored and take care of that. Check the turbo for excessive shaft play. Then start with the exhaust...

My experience as an installer was that Pioneer made some of the best sounding and most reliable headunits for the money. Alpine was good 12 years ago but I would not recommend them anymore. Sony xplod headunits and amplifiers did exactly what their name suggested, they explode, but not with...

I guess the maft pro has a short period of time at startup when it is initializing and there is no 2.5v output, and the ecu looks for the THA signal at startup and throws a code. I think a simple resistor voltage devider would be better then the 2.2k resistor. Something like this:

HAHA, somehow I didn't have this thread on email notification so I didn't know it was still alive! Thank you all for all the compliments! It is cool to have a pc in the car because there are so many things you can do with it. It's fun to be able to turn on the pc in the car outside and run it...

UPDATE I had codes 21, 24 and 51 from the beginning. I knew the 21 was from me using the 89+ harness and ecu with no o2 sensor and the zt-2 simulated output to the ecu. I read through old posts and found that a 1k ohm resistor plugged into the black/red and red/blue pins of the o2...

Not bad dude, not bad at all! That is a much better welder then the old one I had for sure. You are a fast learner too!

That is very cool! We need to talk :icon_wink I was thinking I might need bigger injectors but I have it way leaned out on the maft (about -10% total) and it can still hit 10.5/1 at 20psi, and I am still on the stock fpr and a walbro. I would love to see what works for you on the response...

I think you guys should just race each other on foot and make sure there is a cliff at 1/2 track.

Your welcome :icon_wink

I would guess the pre89 mounts are at least a inch shorter.

LOL, That would get him banned on SF. :biglaugh:

They need to start banning people who post pics of their stock mk4 with $10,000 wheels and $10,000 paint/body kit and all the people who respond with : "that is SICK" "that is TIGHT" "that is THE SHIT" THat would cut down on the number of posts by at least 50% :biglaugh:

Joe, you know you like little black balls in your mouth. :biglaugh:

Supramania > Supraforums

You just need to adjust it. There is a pin coming out of the master cyl under the dash with a nut on it, loosen the nut and unscrew the pin until there is just a little freeplay. The pedal should only move about 1/2" before you feel it start to disengage the clutch. If you go too far the cluch...

I heard that ct26 was the biggest production turbo on any car. Well excluding exotics and special vehicles.

The outer diameter is not the problem then, you could try to squeeze the middle of the clamp together, or get a better clamp for your application. I have heard of the ebay clamps really sucking if that is what you got.

There are different sizes of v-band flanges and clamps. You probably have a flange that is too thin or a clamp that is too wide. It works by squeezing the dp flange to the turbo flange. If the part inside the v-band that squeezes the flanges together is too wide it will never seal.

You will hit fuel cut long before you reach the turbo's limits. Do you already have all the other upgrades needed to support 16 psi? No matter how much boost you run it is not going to put you in your seat like a upgraded ct26 or aftermarket turbo will.

It will handle 14psi no problem.