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What's really funny is that I saw a brand new Honda S2000 with a supercharger at a dealership with a blown engine and the tech told me the OBDII had recorded a peak of over 14k RPM!

:biglaugh: at least you can laugh about it :biglaugh: PS: to hit the 12k redline you have to get it going about 70, put it in first, and let out the clutch! (this is a joke, please do not try this at home) <edit IJ> And duck ;)

Why "underdrive" your accessory items with a lightened crank pulley? Possible reasons: 1) You don't want your battery to charge at idle. 2) Your 12k rpm redline is way too high for your ps pump. 3) The 7m mechanical fan is far too efficent, it should be slowed down so it doesn't...

Ideally you would want CDI ignition like a MSD DIS-4 for huge hp goals. My 1j coil setup should be good to the same hp and boost levels as a 1jz or 2jz stock ignition system. The missfire I was experiencing was due to cracked coils, not because of the ignitors. I'm putting the 1jz coils back on...

$5,000,000 and a hot Russian bitch?!? Where do I sign up for that?!?

Talking about basic car wiring connections with you aerospace guys is like talking about car stereos with a home audiophile guy. :nuts: You can never be right and what you use is never good enough. :biglaugh: Most peoples cars here will never be subjected -100 degrees F or 10g's or go...

Very true. The method used and the quality of the connection is the important part. I make my point more for the ones who look at butt connectors and think they are terrible connections. I always solder engine harnesses to lengthen them because it would be far too thick with crimped connections...

I think the sequential part could be done very easily. Either put in a rpm activated switch and have the output kick on the vsv for the second turbo, OR, use a cheap manual boost controller to adjust the vacuum to the sequential actuator so it comes on at a certain boost level. FUN PROJECT...

The only soldered connections in your Supra from Toyota are on pc boards, everything else is crimped :icon_wink Fluke 179 has .1 ohm resolution. I've got a Fluke 76 with .01 ohm resolution and a relative function to zero out resistance of the test leads and it still can't tell the difference.

That was not done with the proper crimp tool. Don't use pliers to crimp butt connectors. :biglaugh:

Ok, the early 89 harness has all the correct connectors for the body harness of the 88 car, with the ecu connectors for the 89+ ecu. There are only 2 or 3 wires on the big square connector that must be moved to a different position on the same connector they are in. There is one more connector...

I found out the 88 auto harness was discontinued in '04 from Toyota. I can still get the early '89 harness, but you will need the newer ecu also. The used harness I have is the same thing. The used harness is not very crunchy and is in good shape.

I'm not so sure. I had a Supra repaired that was worse then that and it was fixed and has very little bondo. A good body shop will have the right equipment to fix that.

That guy is a whole bucket of special.

I guess so, but it's good anyways :biglaugh:

I feel your pain... I'm in the same poor idle club. :cry:

http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html Explanations of all the different sensors, ecu functions, test procedures, and various electrical systems, OBD I and OBD II.

You can do it! :eek3dance Almost there!

I think I can get the harness for you. We have purchased 5 new Toyota harnesses in the last few months. We have a Toyota insider :icon_wink I'll find out on Wed. I did put a early 89 harness in my 88 car so I could use the newer ecu. It has all the right body connectors, but there are a few...

I never liked 3 spoke wheels since the first time I saw the first 15" Pep Boys ones. Why spend that kind of cash when you can get these off a Saab in a junkyard for $20!