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haha, this thread is funny. :) -shaeff

^ very true. good points. :) -shaeff

a search for "N/A cams" yeilded the following: mainly this one: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...highlight=cams and this one: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=156 and many more to back it up: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...highlight=cams...

if i remember correctly, the operating voltage of a wallypump is somewhere in the viscinity of 9-14v. (don't quote me on that, but that's what's in my head) i wouldn't run it at less than 9v. you won't gain any power by doing the 12v mod, but if you're tuning, it'll make the task easier...

i've got the same one with my LG VX8600 (sweeet phone!) i love it. i only use it when i'm driving, and even so, it's a rare occasion. -shaeff

cryo, you're lucky. if this was a joke, and you got my hopes up, i'd ban your ass! ;) that's sweet! -shaeff

read this thread, and disregard the fact that the OP has a 1jz: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35437&highlight=oil -shaeff

no, i have no inner fender contact, and i'm lowered on eibachs. perhaps on a large bump they might make contact briefly, but i have yet to bottom out like that. i mean that the actual rim contacts the lower control arm at full lock. to fix this, i adjusted the steering stops out a bit until...

^ got 'em. love 'em. great tire, and that's where i got them too. :) 275/40/r17 rear, 255/40 front -shaeff

i can never remember the offset of mkiv TT rims, but i'm running falken azenis rt-615's on them. 275/40/r17 rear, no problem at all, 255/40/r17 front, rubs on full lock. adjustment of the steering stops fixed the problem. -shaeff

when i got my JDM 7mgte running for the first time, it was january (two years ago?). i let it idle until the temp gauge started moving, then drove it up and down my street. (back road in a small town)- no heat, and the temp gauge dropped back down to COLD. i was like WTF? i already had a new...

i'm pushing 300+rwhp through my w58 with a clutchmasters stage 3 carbon kevlar full face disk, mated to a fidanza 11lb flywheel. no complaints thus far, but i'm not going to guarantee that it's going to last, either. ;) i've got 275/40/r17 falken azenis rt-615's on the back. (255's in the front)...

eh, put in a cometic MHG with brand new ARP's, and when i did my re-torque after 1000 miles, some of them were a bit more loose than others. i followed the directions to the letter. when re-torquing is as easy as it happens to be, i say: "why not?" -shaeff

i put one of these in my truck. my model cd player is a *bit* old and the unit doesn't function 100% the way it's supposed to, but i got it all figured out now, and can easily find what i'm looking for. sound quality is that of a CD. (or as good of quality as the music that you have on your...

i believe it was IJ who said that even ARP's will stretch a tiny bit, but then never again, which is why you have to re-torque brand new head studs, but after that re-torque, you'll never have to do it again. and you have to crack the nuts loose before you re-torque. i did it one nut at a...

i LOL'd haha. that guy's pretty good. :) -shaeff

you could always keep the r154 and find yourself a stillway sequential shifter for it. they're few and far between, but they do pop up every so often. for a 6 speed nissan tranny, you'd probably be looking at a custom bellhousing, making sure the shifter lines up properly in the tranny...

the stock seats are so comfortable, that i'm putting them in my '94 toyota pickup DD. :) -shaeff

if by silly, you mean efficient, then yes, very silly. ;) -shaeff

i'll surely post pics when i'm done. for now, i think i'm going to weld tabs onto the bumper support, and hang it at a slight angle. in the future when money allows, i'll pick up a turbo A duct and put that in, or another bumper support that i can modify for a turbo A duct, and reinforce at the...