Just keep in mind Knock Detection is after the event..... (think of it as a Bomb Detector that relies on the explosion to trigger it)
Best strategy is tune with a large safety margin if you're not $$$ up.
If you've ever used a set of electronic ears to listen to a 7M on a dyno you'd understand why the knock window is so important to hearing actual knock and not the normal background clatter, I tried a knock link in my car and it was 98% useless due to the noise produced..
Should have recovery stamped on it, failing that there should be a rubber ring where it meets the rad neck, I RTV'd my hex caps to seal them, if you have the correct Inhex socket and a breaker bar I doubt you'll strip it removing it.
From memory the 7M will push about 700 Ml around from stone cold to hot, my recovery can was only just big enough to cope (1 litre polished SS one)
The correct radiator cap plays a big part in this system as well.
No Deer here (well not many that come near roads) but we do have IDIOT Kangaroos....
Counted 15 last night on the drive back from Dinner (25 Km's) these stupid things have 0 road sense, a couple of weekends ago I came across one at the side of the road facing away from me, as I got closer he...
Everything is built to run at specific tolerances, overheat something and that all changes, things become either too tight or too loose then bad things happen... ;)
Binding/leaking/cavitation and so on, failure isn't far away.
A lot has to do with our geographical location, for a long time we were so far from everything we had to learn to make do with what ever was available, we're great tinkerers, look on just about any F1 teams they will have an Aussie as a fabricator ;)
You "might" find aftermarket in the correct thicknesses for the stock pistons but maybe not, don't know where or what you heard about OEM rings but there's nothing "wrong" with them quality wise, they're just thicker than aftermarket rings so prone to flutter in extreme high output engines.
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