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why would you rather fix it properly to last 20 years when youre gonna be using it for less than 2 months?:aigo:

i heard people replace just bearings after having knock, as long as the car wasnt run very much after the knock started im sure it could last a few months easy if not a lot more. Ive seen people do it in other cars, dont know about the 7mge. Its worth a shot, id rather try it than sit around and...

check your fuel pressure, it could be excessive.

well thats not exactly what im getting at. What im really worried is my oil pressure at idle, spec is at LEAST 4psi and im getting less than that at times. I knew the first comment would be to verify the reading with a mechanical gauge so i posted the reasons why i could not do that. Also...

Ive got a 7mge with 80k miles on it, and when its idleing at around 700 rpm the oil pressure can get to as low as 2-3psi sometimes, but as soon as i start moving the pressure seems pretty normal. At 3k rpm it usually wont go any lower that 50psi when fully warm. Is this caused by a pressure...

maybe someone changed the motor before and left those in there?

Wow that is totally stupid:nono:

just saw your flag, if its lhd just do it on the other side of the car im sure its the same on that side

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/7527-got-oil-top-your-spark-plugs.html

i blame toyota for putting phillips head screws for the valve covers. I changed mine to bolts when i changed the gasket so i could actually get some torque on them

theres a wiring gromet that goes in the top left from the clutch master. You can barely see it from under there. Jack the car up, take the left front wheel off, unscrew all the screws holding the wheel well liner in, pull out the liner and youl clearly see a gromet going into the cab and then...

Jetjock, while we are on this topic i have had a problem with the stock radiator in my na 7m. It seems theres a large area at the top of the tank that is filled with air, when i squeez the upper hose i can hear coolant sloshing around in the upper tank, but wheni remove the cap coolant is up to...

Its supposed to, as the coolant heats up it expands and goes into the overflow at a specified pressure depending on your radiator caps accuracy. when the car cools down it sucks it back in

not sure i completely understand but yes the heater core valve uses vacuum to actuate. If you dont have vac there, you wont get heat.

I just installed my megan racing coilovers track series and the rears on their lowest possible height still doesnt seem to go all that low, it makes it look decent but doesnt make it look slammed, theres still a tire gap, whats with that?

that is one product i hear good results from, just dont expect the results to last forever.

how come you would want to use a wire with high impedance?

usually around 3 or 4 psi, but if ive been driving for a while especially on the freeway and the oil gets hot my gauge reads 0psi:(

I seem to have had this problem a couple times in my 86.5 na. After a long highway cruise, i went to part at the fast food place, hot shutdown right after getting off the freeway. i eat for about 20 mins or so and come back out to start it up, as soon as it starts up the engine starts shakeing...

those things are pretty notrotious for rust even when not submerged in water, doesnt sound all that fun but best of luck