Search results

well you do have an exhaust leak and it does sound like its possible that its an exhaust leak, but ya that does kinda sound like kncok.

already bought coilovers to replace them, but i was wondering why they were tokicos, if they were changed at sometime in the cars life or if they are tokicos from the factory

What make are the stock struts, are they labeled with toyota or are they Tokico stock? My rears are tokicos but theyre blown and the car only has 83k miles, wondering if theyre aftermarket or stock.

i used the adapter and the sending unit is so close to the manifold heatshield that you cant unscrew the little knobs all the way off even. I just did that and slipped the boot for the stock sending unit over the aftermarket one

they have a tapered fit so they are definately difficult to get out sometimes. You need a pickle fork or ball joint seperator or a lot of slamming with a hammer to get it out. You can rent these tools for free at autozone. I dont reccomend the pickle fork unless youre using the air hammer with...

just went to morro bay today haha, weird.

prius.....GTFO lol jk

i havent contacted them, i figured its easier for them to chime in here as ive seen a lot of others post prosport questions on the board and the vendor usally chimes in

So i installed a prosport 60mm electric OP gauge and got the adapter/screwed it into the stock port location. It seems as though the gauge is working fine initially when cold, but then as the car warms im not sure if its the gauge or not but my pressure has gotten to 0 psi idle but 50-60+ psi at...

doesnt go far, its tapered. its supposed to snug up to prevent leaks. If it doesnt leak youre good.

if it makes any difference my autozone hatch struts were a good inch to inch and a half longer, didnt affect anything but it did open the hatch further

snap on is probably your best bet but very expencive. I was given a small swivel head snap on torque wrench that goes up to 75 ft lbs. Works very well, but even that is worth like 3-400 dollars i think. Just remember to ALWAYS set the wrench back to 0 when you put it away, the spring will lose...

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/dirgle/BumpStop.jpg did a quick search, this is looking like my problem, thanks! Can i just use a standard nylon end nut on the end of that?

i cant remove the pan and pump on the car?

Ive got this problem with my right front suspension that i need help narrowing down. Whenever i turn the wheels lock or close to lock all the way to the right and drive over some kind of uneven surface (entering a shopping center where it has the big lip where the curb goes down) i hear this...

Sorry to change the topic slightly, but what needs to be removed to acess the relief valve to "shim" it?

picture borrowed from "isnms" on the supraforums. You want to add a relat just like this. http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j187/isnms/Supra/SupplementalStarterRelay.jpg I reccomend you make the wire 12 gauge or thicker. If you buy a regular bosche style relay from radioshack or something...

seriously wouldnt think your switch would fry, especially if there was no smoke involved

its not the pump itself that would result in low pressure in most cases, when clearances are made larger (wear) oil pressure (resistance to flow) goes down

I also did the extra relay mod and have no problems, this is safer and a million times easier than running a new wire, the switches inside the ignition arent meant to carry a whole lot of current so the relay method really helps improve the performance of everything