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This one is not too bad. It could be bigger though at 8 x 8". Price is $166. http://www.mcmaster.com search for 2352A1 If you're near NJ I know of someone who might be willing to rent you his lapping plate.

You are correct, unless the lapping plate was bigger than the entire block! Even then, you would need a mechanism to keep the plate normal to the cylinder bores. Machines that can do this sort of thing exist, but are not going to be available to anyone without the capital budget of a huge...

The optics guys figured out the secrets of lapping 50+ years ago, and routinely maintain surface finishes to a few hundred nanometers or better. We have a number of projects here at my work where we maintain lapping tolerances to 0.5 micron across 4 and 6 inch semiconductor wafers. High spots...

Lapping is the only sure way to get the RA below 1 micron (50 microinches). That may sound like overkill, but HKS does spec an RA of better than 1.27um for its MHG. Get a plate that is at least 8 inches in diameter, and lap in a figure eight pattern, or connect the plate to a 50rpm motor...

If you read the instructions carefully you will note that great care is taken to ensure you are not getting misleading readings from spring pressure.... viz. "Rest the cams in the head with the buckets and shims removed for lobe clearance. Remove cam bearing caps and insert small squares of...

Remove the alternator and its a straight shot to the bolts using a ~2 foot extension.

Sounds like a HG problem, especially given the lack of block prep, but I would check that the rad cap is okay first with a simple test. With the car cold, pull out the overflow tube from the overflow tank. Squeeze the upper rad hose. It should be firm and no coolant should squirt out of the...

There are two nuts that hold these things on from the backside. If they are loose you need to pull the trim off the inside and retighten them. Its quite a bit of work as the seat belt guide and other stuff needs to come off as well.

The plastic appears to be painted gloss black. Given that, is the plastic polish still the right stuff to use?

Yeah, that's right $51 ea. That's 30% off list price, LOL. Anyone can get that deal at VT. Talk to Mark Sherman there.

Good idea. Did you use a clay bar? I need to see if I can get the other side glossy. The driver side was cracked, so I had no choice but to replace it. It was $51 from Vancouver Toyota.

Look what just came in the mail today. Its a driver's roof side ventilator louver. I thought these things were matte, but that's just 17 years of exposure. Its actually supposed to be gloss black!

Stock springs only cost $4 each. That's $96 for the lot.

I prefer the Cibie e-codes. The Hella's high beams point into the tree tops when the low-beams are aimed correctly.

Adjuster, the back enclosures are pretty much 5.25" wide at the speaker opening, with about 2.75inch depth. Do you think the Diamond D651i 5.25" would fit? I've got two spare enclosures that I was going to mill out to try and fit them, but if you have prior experience please let us know...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93364 I hear its flimsy, but have no direct experience. Same thing sells on Ebay for a similar price.

Couple of other possibilities. If the old seal has worn a groove in the timing belt pulley it will leak with a new seal. It can also leak through the gap between the timing belt pulley and crank snout. Put some FIPG on the keyway before installing the pulley.

As I've said before, if your check engine light isn't coming on, then you need to figure out why. A bad ECU is a possibility, especially since it seems the 100A fusible link was blown at some time, and the easiest way to do that is hook up the battery backwards.

I understand. So to remove them you pry them out, or are there hidden fasteners somwhere?

I bolted my elbow to the turbo when it was off the car. I knew it would be trouble once mounted. I was still annoyed that I couldn't put a torque wrench on that one bolt though.