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Attach to the vac line going to the cruise control and heater valve.

Did you check to see that the Violet-White (14) wire going to the combo switch is grounded with the headlight switch on, and open-circuit with the headlight switch off.

See attached.

Note really sure what you want, but attached is the pinout of the 2000+ Toyota External Amplifier Connectors

This diagram may help (brace is 17293). http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1701&P=2

When you say the "first" brace, I assume you are referring to the cleaner of those two braces. It goes from the engine mount to the plenum as IJ said. The metal tab is to hold the starter positive cable. The rusty brace is for the turbo.

There is a small chance it is the headlight relay sticking. Not very likely but easily checked with a voltmeter.

Sounds good, an LED would only draw 10-20 mA, not enough to actuate the relay. If the lights are on, then sounds like the headlight relay is always energized. Pull the headlight relay and see if they turn off. If they do, then you will have to focus on the integration relay #2. Check to...

I believe this may not work as expected. If you look at the stock wiring, you will notice that the high-beam gauge indicator light is driven through the low beam filament circuit. So, if you have high beams on, you will have a 3.4W indicator bulb to ground on your 86 terminal of the low beam...

LOL, check this intro out from musclecarclub.com........ Toyota put the sports car world on edge with its Supra model. A rear driver sports car driven by a six cylinder engine, it became a true performance car with the addition of dual turbos.

You can calibrate it to show vacuum if you want. The factory sensor covers 0 to 2 bar absolute.

You mean like this... http://hem.passagen.se/pellec/supra/boost_eng.html

The question would be whether the 0.7ohm resistor from the MK3 pump circuit will work with the heavier current draw from the MK4 pump. You are looking for 9V at the pump in low-speed mode. It is possible the MK3 resistor will drop too much voltage and the pump will bog. I suppose the best plan...

That will work. What are you going to use for the dropping resistor?

This is the location of the ac drain. I don't think it matches the description of the OP.

The studs and bolts both use 190,000 psi material, and are both 12 mm. Due to lower and more consistent thread friction, the torque spec for studs is 5 ft-lbs lower than bolts. Attached are the instructions for bolts and studs if you don't believe me.

That will work. A potentially more elegant solution is to get the MKIV fuel pump control computer ($230 new from Toyota). It accomplishes the same thing but in a single box. This is something I've been pondering for a while. I'll be interested to hear how your install goes.

This has been posted before: CPS Harness side connector: 90980-10591 Wire Splices: 82998-12270 (Qty: 4) CPS side connector: 90980-10590 Wire Splices: 82998-12260 (Qty: 4) Code 24 is intake air temp sensor signal open or shorted. I would look closely at your AFM wiring while you're there.

No chance. You need to pull the buckets and shims off at the minimum to unload the cam from the spring pressure of the valves.

Reading E means an open circuit. Pull the plug at the sender and measure the resistance across it. If it is open circuit then you will have to pull the sender and figure out what happened. If its reading correctly (10-150 ohms) then the problem must be in the gauge circuit. I would start...