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I would check for a cracked AFM wire or intermittent connector. Try jiggling the harness and connector while you have your multimeter attached. It may also be temp sensitive, so try testing it hot and cold. Still, it's a long shot for a code 25/26 problem.

This one is a little cheaper and the spec at +/- 0.0002mil/ft is still good. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/cen6429.html

You know code 21 just means that either the factory O2 sensor heater is open circuit, or its not cross counting during closed loop operation. Given you just replaced it, it should be obvious that the problem is not the sensor. The TCCS knows nothing about your wideband, so it will not set a code...

It's a pity no aftermarket WBs are using newer wideband sensors such as the Denso A/F sensor, shown in the factory position on my 2GR-FE. It needs to be hot (1200F) to work, and the powerful factory heater allows operation 10s after cold start.

There is a lot of oil in that accordion tube suggesting an overloaded pcv from a tired engine. I would say its leaking out the accordion tube and the fan is blowing it all over the place since the bottom piece of the shroud is gone. Wouldn't be surprised if there are multiple oil leaks as well...

Yeah, where did I pick that up from? :icon_bigg

A code 21 can be caused by things other than the sensor itself. The O2 sensor is one of the most needlessly replaced parts on the car, you can test it yourself easily if you have a propane torch and a voltmeter. If I were you I would: 1) monitor coolant level and makes sure it is not...

white smoke also = cold exhaust Are you losing coolant? No heat could be the vacuum operated valve on the firewall or other HVAC issues but is not likely related to O2 sensor code 21 just says that the O2 sensor is not cross counting, which can be a bad O2 sensor, or other issues...

Don't forget to calibrate your calibrator! :icon_surp

PM sent. The instructions for entering the master code are attached to this post.

Yeah, a relay would work, as shown in attached. If, for some reason both the hi and low beams were ever on at the same time this wiring mod would blow a fuse though. Shouldn't happen but these dimmer switches are getting old.

Writeup here with hose numbers. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/porsche_bov.aspx

LOL. How about "Dreams are the touchstones of our character."

First, a tungsten filament is non-linear, so if you measure the resistance of a headlight it will be very low, almost shorted, when cold. When its powered up, the resistance is much higher. For the indicator light you want 12V across it, so the required resistance of the load on high beams is...

If you have an LED in the high-beam indicator, a 400ohm 2W resistor across the low-beams should work. If you've got the stock high beam indicator bulb, then a decent sized bulb across the low beams would act as a power resistor. A turn signal bulb, for example.

It is called inflation and a weak dollar. It's gone up $10 since I bought it last year. Also, the 110 model was always more expensive than the all plastic 104 model.

:aigo: On the radio of course. A 4 or 5 digit number like 16801

Open or closed, in the stock setup (not vented) it won't make any difference to your idle.

How could it possibly not be open with full vacuum on it?

I bought mine from here. Shipping was free too. http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?code=4849 Mike did a nice writeup on installing it here. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/porsche_bov.aspx