Search results

Well that info would have helped. Have you checked for codes?

How do you have a cooler but no filter relocation? The jz oil cooler is coolant cooled. If suggest you wait. If you had a full setup you could use a tee or a y fitting on the feed side.

Really shouldn't need to change pistons in a ge unless the piston to wall clearance is excessive. Other wise just use ge pistons. Everything else is basically the same but just stick to the ge set.

Next time it does it try jiggling the cps wire by the connector and see if it starts.

Im not sure why but i have seen them for sale a bunch of times. Its like people buy them get them and then sell them.

chin spoiler? Front lip? All mk3 had front lips.

Did you pull codes or just check for a check engine light?

It does work like that. But pressure doesnt mean flow. And if your t stat is 180* and your oil is at 179 its hot but its not open. Run it what ever which way you want tho.

If you blow a line driving hot or cold if the t stat is closed how is the accusump going to save you or attempt to if it's only limited 10% of a -10 an hose? Under normal driving conditions on a 70~ degree day at cruise that t stay most likely won't be open.

To make use of the accusump it would need to be in a position to supply direct pressure to the engine. Like teed into the oil inlet on the block.

And distilled water. Tap water is impurities that will corrode. Also don't weld the head. 7m heads have a trend of getting soft. Find a good used head. 7mge heads are good cause they never saw boost. Same head as well. Just swap over the cams and re shim.

I would suggest an aftermarket electronic if you going to replace it. But jz engines have a lot more oil pressure than a 7m. Mine would go from about 30psi at idle to 80 at higher rpm.

Yes it is. Make sure to use a heat gun on the paint so it doesn't crack. Unless your paint is already bad. Also you want to bend it a little at a time. Don't try to make the lip flat in like 3 rolls.

There is only 3 wires going to the rear abs sensor but it has a 4p connector. Wire colors are red black and yellow and go from the abs sensor through the engine harness to the b3 body connector to the abs computer. The connector will also have the 2 pps wires on it if you have it

As long as it's tight won't be a issue. Could always use lock tite. Id shim it 5mm on any 7m.

How are you going to use your head lights with no head light relay? And you will want to keep the fuel pressure vsv. Lol. Still sounds like you don't know.

You need 6 months or 50 posts.

Sell them. Why toss out good parts.

The whole door or the window?

No. It's easier to just remove the transmission. You will need a 14mm a swivel socket and to lower the trans down to get the too trans bolts the easiest. An with any r154 remove pressure plate from flywheel and then remove transmission. Install in reverse order.