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They come on when the a/c is on or when the coolant temp is too high. IIrc there is a sensor on the t stat housing for them. For a chump car you could wire them to be on with the engine on since all you will be doing is racing.

New or used connector wont matter. If you need to add abs you will need to add that connector and the 3 wires black red and yellow to the abs connector. Not sure how you would not have that connector as all 89+ turbo models had pps which is on the same connector.

You will need about an 11ohm resistor. Megasquirt like resistance values of about 12-16 ohm iirc. Wiring a resistor pack is the same thing except its in a box you have to mount. Just put a resistor inline on the ground side of the wire and it will do the same thing.

Yes the plugs are different. I believe the wire colors should be the same. Prolly will have to cut and solder a different plug in. Could check to see if you can depin and re pin not sure if the pins are the same tho.

No not all low imp injectors are peak and hold. Check with fic and see if your are in fact peak and hold. If there not you will just need resistors.

fuse box and ignitor and depending on year pps and a/c and prolly a couple other things. Might be better off just getting a new harness. And if thats a jdm engine prolly want to pull valve covers and oil and and check everything out make sure its not bad.

If there just low imp non peak and hold injectors you just need to add resistors. And can add a resistor inline in the wire and avoid getting a resistor pack for a cleaner look.

You can use the factory coolant temp sensors. Just take a resistance reading at 3 different temps like in a pot of water with a thermometer. Then you dont have to weld anything in. Are you using peak and hold injectors? If not you would need the peak and hold box. The ebc kit should...

The newer toyota gears dont actually seal anything tho they are sometime stubborn to come off. The crank seal rides on the crank itself.

There is the inland supras. Could prolly find them on facebook.

driftmotion has them as well or can call kurt at champion toyota.

You just compared apples to oranges. The crank pulley and gears are machined to tight tolerances. half the toyotas ive worked on did not come off by hand and which are usually the newer cars with less miles. And fyi the reason chevy makes them so tight is beacuse they dont have keyways...

Generally all fpr will hold a pressure for a minute and then drop or slowly drop down right after. Usually after a a few minutes there is a minimum amount to no pressure.

Why not just crank? Won't ever get pressure to hold over night. Plus the 1-2 revolutions in cranking before starting gives the engine some oil prime.

There smaller than a 7m. I would try calling around to countries where the 1g was available. Also having the part numbers would likely help out.

there re useable as well since there metal.

What is the crank shaft journal diameter. It cant be over 3in.

iTS ON THE 3RD PAGE.

if you have electric fans now the pump you have on there is fine. the soarer 1jz came with fan clutch. usually people use a 2jz pump when swapping anyways.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=074 Well the circuit is simple so if you get power at the switch but not at the back of the car then you have a open somewhere in the wire between them. I'm assuming you have pre89 as your wire colors are different.