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They should have it at OSH or the home depot. Im going to go to a couple stores to find low gloss or matte clear such as this... http://www.krylon.com/products/matte_finish/ I painted the pillar and lower window trim last night. First I got a sharp hobby knife and cut the flaky molding back...

If you use a good UV resistant clear it should last quite awhile. Plastidip is rubberized and can be peeled of of desired. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLsu6TQPvq4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Plastidip and clear was in a spray can. The lower windshield trim is just plastidip with no clear. It has a nice matte finish.

No luck so far. Will try dealer.

Something I did today in about an hour and a half. Plastidip, then some high gloss clear. Best thing is you can peel it of if you don't like it. If I were to do it again I would use some low gloss clear. Clear

I can't seem to find the part number for cps and coil pack male/female connectors with pigtail. Like most members here my wires are brittle so every so often I need to do the jiggle mod to get it started. I know there are a few members here that have ordered them before and the dealership was no...

It took me a nearly 2 min of cranking till I saw oil pressure. Revving the thing was DUMB! Did you even look at oil pressure?

When you remove egr you get.... More detonation Lower gas mileage hotter egt's The EGR valves robs no power whatsoever. It Burns extra unburned fuel and reduces Nox emmissions. Its only open when cruising and its an inert gas so it has no effect on combustion other than absorbing heat from the...

I have an Na-t 7M with a W58 going to a 4.30 rear end. Just recently after turning my boost up about 4psi I got some pretty bad slippage. I tried adjusting my pedal but got no improvement. This is a fairly new clutch so I need something that can hold atleast 400 ft/ib. I want to piece together...

Ya I just spent 3k rebuilding my engine and I'm going to cheap out on fuel. Not that higher octane will do anything cause the engine can't advance the timing anymore.

High CR + Turbo FTW. All I have is a 3in DP, GE cams and at stock boost (~5psi) i get full spool by 2200 RPM. At 8psi I slip the clutch like a mofo. I do have to use mid grade though. Going up a hill with anything lower I can hear pinging.

Have you measured to see if you need a thicker HG?

This is my filter after 500 miles of break in. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM19p-63Kzw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

If your breaking a valve cover you overtightened it. It needs some give for when the metal heats up and expands.

Save the 30 weight for the tractor. I only changed my oil once at 500 miles. You change your oil to many times during break in and all your doing is introducing more detergents and adatives which prevent break in. There's also no reason to use a 10W . 0 or 5W-30 is what your looking for.

ill take a wild guess of 2500 or so? sign up for a shop class. ---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ---------- yup already on the "List"

where? :)

the ECM need the coolant temp to be around 195F to funtion properly. A colder thermostat does not equate to cooler combustion temps so no performance is gained. the engine needs to be that temp for best combustion/ efficiency. extra heat can be dealt with by upgrading the radiator or going with...

Issues I see... Thermostat. NO. Is that transmission FIPG for your pan? Not a fan of king bearings Block,head, and timing cover decked smooth enough for MHG? N/a pistons + 1.2 HG and possible machined engine will have really high comp! Fram. Eww. Wouldent even use it to break in the engine.

Sweet! I broke my engine in with Walmart 5w-30 supertech with great results.