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You lol now til you're asking for his help in some thread where you're like "Oh my god help! I have a shitload of problems and no knowledge to fix them!" And also, there is no reason to use a SAFC when using 550/lex afm.

Isn't 450 rwhp a bit high for a 60-1 ct26?

Are you sure that it's a 60-1? Measure the inside of it.

I've heard that with the newer syn oils, a cool down period isn't really needed unless you're boosting hard and instantly shut it off.

If it's best to keep it water cooled and oil cooled, I'm sure that the more cooling you can get, the better things will be. This is a mere assumption. I don't really approve of the bolt on turbos with the stock manifold, it's a way of being cheap about things. The stock manifold doesn't flow...

Even with the soft line kit you don't get much flex. Ever tried to bend a 7 inch piece of braided stainless? lol

My concern would be the amperage on the circuit itself. The walbro 400 at 40 PSI is a 12 amp draw.

Why?

My setup held fuel pressure over night.

Well said, not sure if it could be put into any easier to understand terms. I know when we had a situation like this on my friends car, his kick panel fuse box had fuses in there that weren't touching both sides of the terminals. We had double and triple checked them but didn't think to make...

Smoke testing won't always show a boost leak. Normally, I've seen smoke testers go anywhere from 5-15 PSI whereas you might need to pressurize your pipes to 15-20 PSI to achieve a non-leak situation. If you weren't in Canada, I would call you and attempt to explain most things to you that...

My Walbro 255 with the aeromotive FPR held pressure fine, switched over to a 400 and pressure slowly bleeds off.

Never seen someone put a band-aid over a bullet hole?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=040 Okay, if these colors are not your colors, I will try to confirm it compared to my 88 later.

Oh man, I thought my previous owner was a tool. I'd almost be scared to hear that engine run to be honest.. Have you pulled the plugs and looked inside the cylinder? What about pulling the dipstick and checking the condition of the oil? If the owner did that to it, I'm almost expecting more...

Have you changed anything else? Just changed the transmission? How did you check for boost leaks? Also can you define 'slow as shit'? If you're pushing the stock CT26 up to 18 PSI, you're just blowing super heated air into the intake, causing the ECU to retard timing further to avoid...

Don't forget the prices for AN fittings and flanges. SS line isn't cheap either. I've spent $300 on my hx35, $275 on my manifold, $95 on my wastegate, probably another $200 on lines and fittings then you need to figure in another $200 for a 3" v-band downpipe and have someone fab up new...

Could we get a price range? When changing out the turbo, you'll have to change out your downpipe as well as add oil drain/feed lines and a 7mgte coolant bypass line.

Any check engine codes?

Seems only 3/4 of the tire is making contact. Are you going for that 'stance' Jordan?