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Well, with ARP everywhere as long as it's properly torqued and the proper valve springs, I don't see 7500 being a problem at all.

How much pressure are you putting into the pipe? If you're only using roughly 10 PSI and receiving 2 PSI at the end, your leak will be fairly quiet. Crank the pressure up to about 25 PSI and you'll hear the leak SCREAM.

I'm using the driftmotion downpipe which is right by the o2 sensor, reads fine.

IJ was running 8k+ with ferrea dual valve springs that were cryo treated. I plan on doing almost the same thing, shimless buckets with ferrea dual valve springs cryo treated. I also want the titanium retainers to try and keep the weight down.

Probably with vacuum on, mine's set at 31 PSI IIRC.

Looks like you need to reshim the valves.

Remove intercooler piping. Plug the end of the intercooler piping. Pressurize the piping.

Are you pressurizing EVERYTHING? Such as the crankcase vents and all? There's a reason the crankcase should be under vacuum while the engine is running. Like I suggested before, REMOVE the intercooler piping from the throttle body and cap the end. I use a cap with an air pressure gauge in it to...

It's sitting like that because I've used the lex adjustment to get the AFR in open loop a little closer to 11's. Before I started doing the adjustments, the car would go 10.0 on my UEGO.

I would recommend lightened OS valves with titanium retainers running dual ferrea comp springs if you're really set on making this thing scream. While the head is out, do cams then get it ported and the intake runners mildly polished. I've heard a mirror finish will actually hurt atomization but...

Well, that does go over the entire EFI system from start to finish. It will make sure all the easier stuff is done by following it step by step. As you can see, it leaves checking the individual electronics at the end because it's more time consuming.

So everything is the same size expect for the mating surfaces, wow. I assumed by having the smaller footprint they would also have smaller turbine passage ways as well.

Normally, the waste gate opening for the internal waste gate is too small. With it being too small, it's opening when told to but can't flow enough to keep the turbo from spiking above your set PSI. What you can do to keep this from happening is remove the turbo and ream out the waste gate...

Looks like the turbo sucked something into it, did it have a wire mesh screen on the front of it?

When you turn the key, do all the lights dim and you'll have a starter click? Could be a bad starter relay or even a bad connection between the battery and the starter.

I figured one of these threads would pop up shortly, that being said. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=21 For the mechanics, the above should be more than enough to fix any related problems.

Basically what I was saying. My car runs near 2.5 VF til open loop which it then runs 11.2 AFR and slowly goes to 10.9 as the RPM's climb.

perhaps try capping one end of the intercooler piping.. just leaving everything connected and pressurizing everything is very bad. you WILL push out your main seals if you pressurize the pcv.

What? If you need a AFC to keep the AFR happy on the 7mgte with just 550/lex afm then you've got problems. A AFPR and the adjustment screw on the lex afm is MORE than enough to keep the VF signal happy.

Damn it Bobby!