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Please, stop this bullshit information. Do yourself a favor and look at a bone stock 7m and a 2j. USDM is 326 BHP with the 7m being around 232BHP. Just shim the waste gate a tad bit and guess what? You're getting close to that 300 BHP mark. Nice try though, it's people like you that make the 7M...

For a JZ fan, your information is a tad bit lacking on the power figures there..

It's cool Prism, don't let the JZ guys get you down. They couldn't keep the 7M because it has less of a tolerance for ignorant owners. I've seen it SO many times before, 99% of the problems for a 7m is the owner. It's the same way for a JZ series engine, they just have newer parts. The time will...

You bought the turbo I was looking at, lol. Guess that just means I'll buy a 6768 later.

Interested to see how this does, get it dyno'd ASAP. My HX is waiting for one of these if all turns out for yours.

That's kind of funny, I get more ford rangers and diesel trucks trying to race me than honda's or other imports. I get these idiots with 4 cylinder ford rangers with ripped off exhaust try to race me but the newer STI's or EvoX won't even look at me at red lights..

There are ways of cleaning up the engine bay without removing everything.

You could always run the double walbro 400 or one of these. http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?products_id=6403

Will the .63 a/r pull to redline on a 1j? Have you thought about the next size up housing?

Nope, nothing on these cars is over complicated. Most of the stuff on the intake side you should really keep. Such as the fresh valve VSV for hot starts and the VSV for the EGR system, the EGR system itself. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=1708&P=5 Cleaning up...

^This. The oil now is MUCH better than the oil from 10 years ago even. I've heard from IJ that it's advancing almost to the point where a turbo timer is useless unless you JUST got done beating on the car.

Um, IIRC 3p said that the memory of the ecu is short, roughly 16 bytes, which isn't much as far as 'learning and remembering' http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?172888-Lexus-afm-and-550s&p=1917689#post1917689 JJ's post is below yours.

You're also forgetting to add in the 80% max cycle duty factor.

This is why I will be ceramic coating and exhaust wrapping my manifold then ceramic coating my turbine housing with a turbo blanket on it. Back on topic, is that 45 PSI with or without vacuum signal on? Either way that sounds quite a bit high. Mine's low-mid 30's for a reference.

There's a thread on here somewhere that the guy designed his own intake and exhaust manifold so that each pulse was 'tuned' to hit at the right moment.

Do you have any CEL? What's the timing and fuel pressure at? What is your inHG at idle? If your timing is off, your vacuum will be low. If your manifold vacuum is low, your fuel pressure will be off. With your AFPR, is your j-tube bypassed?

Threaded hole? On the side of it near the top by the brake booster? Sounds like where the cruise control/heather valve/turbo pressure sensor gets its reading from.

I wouldn't play with the timing at all, my car still gets pretty good gas mileage the way it sits. If you want an extreme gas sipper, buy another car.

The housing is 25% larger with more air going through the bottom section thus raising fuel cut. With this done, you need to at least run 550cc injectors and a new fuel pump. Most will upgrade to a walbro 255 or the denso twin turbo fuel pump, you can also do a new AFPR to further control the...

Doesn't do anything but reset your clock.