Oh man, I just read this entire thread. I can honestly say I've laughed out loud a few more times than I should have. The solution was offered SEVERAL times in CLEAR view if you're attempting to find the actual solution and not some quick fix.
This thread is just so full of information that...
Bit off topic but I noticed that Albert picked up 203 HP by going up 12 PSI. That's nearly 17 wheel horsepower per PSI.
On topic, this makes me want ProEFI more and more..
I had one in my hands when we first cranked my car over. I nearly dosed the engine bay when the smoke came from my manifold/downpipe/turbo for getting up to temps for the first time.
It sounds like your first few issues along with your biggest issue is wire related. Look all around the engine bay and wiggle everything possible. Double check all possible connectors as well.
Do you have any mods? hardpipe? exhaust?
If not, don't push it harder than 8-10 PSI as the car is choked up. Now if you have free flowing exhaust, you could push it to fuel cut.
Do you have all the air dams and such?
Have you thought of hooking up sprayers directed at the radiator? Something to spray a mist of water onto the front of the radiator might help cool it.
You don't need to order the coaxial cable or the KS connector. I went to Lowes and bought 6-8 ft of rg-6 coaxial shielded cable then went to a local toyota dealer and asked for a knock sensor plug. It's used the same connector on quite a few vehicles.
On the airplanes I've done where we used a compressor fitting to pressurize the cylinders, if it was the rings you can hear it in the dip stick tube whereas if it was the valves you could hear it in the exhaust/intake. If you do pressurize the cylinder make sure you put a breaker bar on the...
Last time I checked my KS by tapping them on a hard surface, the voltage generated was very low mV. IIRC, it was like 20-90 mV. More voltage seen, more knock.
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