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Hmmm.... Running any vehicle for more than just a few minutes with the rad. cap off is a BAD idea. Overheating the vehicle is not a possibility, its what WILL happen. The coolant mix, as with anything else, expands with heat(physics 101). The temp. gauge won't even tell you its happening, as...

The upper ball joints on my car are getting pretty loose as well. Decided to see what it takes to modify the control arms to use replacable ball joints. I'll get some pics next week and post up how it goes. Sorry to jack your thread, by the way. :)

Yeah, if you can reach the output shaft. I thought it didn't stick out far enough, though, is why I said to have a friend turn the d.s. for you. If it's in neutral, the output shaft won't turn the input shaft, or vice versa. That's why you put it in gear. You put it in gear so that turning...

Hmmm.... did you check your codes? http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx What is your fuel pressure? I hate to say this, but you might wanna bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic. Tell him everything you've done, and let him go from there.

I've done hundreds of standards, and they're always a pain. A little trick you can try: Bump it into gear, insert the driveshaft, and get a friend to slowly turn the driveshaft while you push, not real hard, but firmly, on the trans. This will turn the input shaft, and align the splines in...

On a well built n/a motor, adding a turbo and a few other well planned bolt-ons makes an excellent sleeper(no turbo badges). I could spend the day picking on Vette's and Porches. It'd be a lotta fun ;)

lol. Honestly, I don't think you could get the head built right for a high hp n/a application for under $700 ($1200 maybe), not to mention the bottom end... Would like more info on the kit he's talking about though, just outta curiosity.

Here ya go, this will make a 400+ hp n/a 7m: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05348%2DNBNOS&N=700+4294907680+4294870482+115&autoview=sku ;)

Sigh... I really don't feel like explaining how an internal combustion 4 stroke motor works, so here you go. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm Give it a read. It'll explain a lot.... (make sure you carefully read the information in the how camshafts work in the valvetrain section)

lol, its in gear(think its reverse). You should be able to pull that one up to line up with the rest. Don't pull to hard and pull it out, just enough to pop it up into neutral with the rest.

Drumminforever: If the cam pin is in the center hole in the gears, and the marks are pointed up, directly at the marks on the back cover, and the crank is set at zero, the timing is correct.

All three marks should be up. As according to the TSRM. The cams are set in the correct position every time they point up. Only the crank can point at the mark and be 180 out. Its the cams that determine timing. Iirc, there's three holes in the gears for the alignment pin on the cam. If...

Don't think its a sensor. You need to get a block test kit. Here's a link to what you need to do: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

The steel of the front springs is thicker than the back ones, and they should look like they're compressed more. As far as the stance, the back of my car sits higher on Bilsteins and stock springs by at least an inch.

Quote: IF the gas is floored... When is it not?? :biglaugh:

Actually, we're discussing the possibility of a malfunctioning remote start alarm system...

It's pretty easy once you have the covers off. On the back of the ignition, you'll see a white plastic piece with wires going to it(its the ignition switch). Trace those back to the black connector, and unplug it. There's one screw on the bottom of the switch holding it to the tumbler. Undo...

Ahh, I missed that. Cool man, my bad. Heh, and I took pics and uninstalled the switch today to(luckly its easy to do).

I seem to be missing where he said it stays on a specific amount of time? I thought it just stayed on till he stalled it... that's why I think its the switch. It is rare that I see this in a Toyota, but it does happen. Lol, and I don't call myself a professional, I'm still learning... :)

Sorry, forgot to take my camera today. Just put it in my car so I'll remember tomarrow. The ignition switch that I'm talking about isn't the part the key goes in, but the electric part behind it (on most cars its seperate). It should have a connector from the harness under the dash plugged...