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If the problem is the bolt pulling the cylinder out of round, the tap your hearing could very well be piston slap. The cylinder is out of round just enough that the piston is moving side to side. Think about how fast that piston is going up and down at 800 r.p.m.'s(revolutions per minute)...

I have the 8.8mm wires and a blaster coil(not an MSD ignition box)on my car. I can't tell you if it makes much of a difference in performance on this car. They were my first upgrade. The main reason I use these wires is their longevity. They won't break down like a stock, or worse, off name...

Hmmm... not really sure. It would be possible to operate them with a jump box. Hook the ground to a clean bolt head. I usually hook a ground to one of the 2 big(17mm?) bolt heads on the bottom of the column down by the fire wall. Useing a jumper wire, hook the positive side to the blue(not...

suprageezer: Lol, you are a smart man. I do enjoy working on the rare muscle car that comes in, and the "test drive" is exhilerating. I'm smart enough not to drive it like its mine, though. I'd hate to break or, worse, wreck such a beautiful work of mechanical art. Back on subject, though...

Relays have an amperage rating as well. Any auto parts will... well, should... have the correct one.

The easiest way to check the alternator is to start the car with a FULLY CHARGED battery, and then check the voltage at the battery terminals with a volt meter. The alternator should be putting out 14 to 14.5 volts. If your getting 13.5 or less, check it again on the alternator itself. If...

Here's a link to understanding and testing common automotive relays: http://www.installdr.com/TechDocs/999403.pdf It is pretty rare that I see Toyota ignition switches go bad. Not that its impossible, just that its rare. I have, however, seen quite a few posts over on sf where the ignition...

Some where in IJ's build thread on mkiiitech, he talks about how over torquing the timing belt idler pulley bolt will pull #1 cylinder outta round, and how he found that out. Retorque that bolt to exactly 36 ft. lbs., and see if the knock goes away.

Oh yeah, and thanks Shaeff for posting that link for the valve springs. Couldn't remember where I saw that at, and wanted that information.

Hey, sorry man, yesterday was a rough day, and I erringly took it out on you. My fault. Its the "philosophy" word that set me off. My point is that I've been working on cars for many years, and my advice is based upon real world experience, not assumptions. My way of torquing heads is time...

lol Supramacist, I never said Felpro was the best, just as good as Toyota's stock gasket at a better price. The Felpro will last just as long as the metal gasket: right to the point where you over heat the motor again. As far as you not agreeing with how I retorque heads: You're right. What...

Cool, sounds like you did a good job. I use an air die grinder with surfacing disks (http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2389&select= 2nd one down to be exact)to do what you did with the sand paper; its faster is all. The trick is to not spend much time in one spot...

lol, get a 4 ft. extension(or enough extensions to reach 4 ft.), and a wiggler adapter. Let the back of the tranny down a little, and those 2 top bolts are easy to get to.

11.5:1 compression is to much for pump gas, or right at the limit, iirc. You'd have to start running 110 octane from the track. No, I wouldn't use the head to do it. What if you ovrheat it and warp it again? Then you have to get a new head. Use the Felpro head gasket kit; its cheaper than...

No, took the little a/c fan off. Wired the low speed resistor in the shroud(on the Contour fans) to an adjustable temp. switch, and wired the high speed to a switch installed in an empty hole by the fog light switch. Make sure you use relays for each, they'll help save your battery, and the...

I use the fans off the 98 Contour. If you don't put them on a temp. switch, the car will run too cold. It won't warm up, idle high, and run rich. Oh yeah, the little stock fan is for the a/c, and is activated through a high pressure switch, iirc.

89+ Mustangs have a switch in the a/c that temporarily disengages the compressor clutch at WOT, effectively stopping the parasitic drag. Most newer sports cars have something similar as well.

Both my 87 and 86.5 have the cover on the y-pipe. Checked today just to be sure. Both have original motors.