You need to take a fuel sample in a glass jar. The gas he got probably has water in it. Its condensation build up in the tanks at the station. He probably got gas from the bottom of the tank, and pulled some water with it. If there is water in the gas, get some gas dry from the local parts...
There's an easy way to get that bolt. Get 4 ft. of extension and a good wiggler socket. Put the whole car up on stands, as high as you feel safe. Put a jack under the trans., take the cross member out, and let the tail of the trans. down as far as it'll go. Reach up there with the 4' of...
Actually, I like Ford... they keep me busy. Oh yeah, there was a recall for the fan harness on the Contours and Mystakes. If your gonna use these fans, make sure you check the harness. The ones that were changed as per the recall will be in good shape. The ones that weren't changed will have...
Did you check the cam clearances on each lobe? If one of the shims was off by enough, that could cause a similar symptom. Usually, I try to put the shims and buckets back on the same valves they came off of. I usually number them. As far as the wear on the jdm cams, I'll have to take a peek...
Lol, poor guys probably confused as hell now. By the symptoms described in the first post, its a bad alternator. 99% of the time, if the alternator's dead(not just weak), the only voltage reading you'll get from either the batt. or the alternator is whatever the battery voltage is. He...
Honestly, its hard to verify what a "knock" is without atually being there, and finding it. Was really hoping the tensioner was it. Is this an auto or standard? If its an auto, maybe you might have a torque converter bolt loose, and its hitting the back of the block. Did you have the block...
Sorry, everythings cool. Yeah, I took certain comments personally, and replyed with unneccessary harshness. My apologies. My handle doesn't always describe my attitude. Anyway, the only problem I've actually had with my current setup is that it runs to cool in the winter time. I have to...
The best way to be sure that the timing is correct is to have the timing marks for the cams set in the correct position. Once this is done, yes, as long as the rotor is pointed at #1, its pretty close. Once you get it running, use a timing light and set the timing as instructed in the tsrm.
Coil is around $40 iirc. its pretty easy to wire in as well. You can use the two wires that go to the stock coil. With the key on, engine off (KOEO), one wire will be hot when tested with a test light, and the other ground. The blaster is marked as to where each go. I cut the wires a couple...
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