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So, If anyone has that one friend that just makes you shake your head with some of the nonsense he spews out lay it out. some back story Friend picks up a Civic (what ever, nothing wrong with that; just all what is about to follow fits the stereo type) calls me on the way to my house...

UpDate: So before porting the turbo I wanted to test all options. I spent alot of time reading through that port topic ( THANK YOU GC89 ) they mentioned when installing the wastegate if it was hard to pull the top to the 2 mounting bolts, which would cause it to not open at low pressure like GC...

I replaced my upper A-arm bolt not to long ago was not near that drastic but was also bent from PO incident. Ended up having to cut the Top off the right hand side, Grab the part closest to the cabin with vice grips hammer it out a bit cut with a grinder and repeat. My sub frame wasn't damaged...

I checked village to no avail but looked at camelback site which inspired me to call the Toyota dealer about hour plus away they were 3$ a piece. guy on the phone got crazy excited and said he would do better for price hehe. Didn't even think about calling a car lot odd, But I ordered them...

1.25 good sir those studs would be sweet but wrong pitch. I did order some 48mm zinc coated ones but still looking. I am very curious to see if anyone pulled those rock auto ones. they claimed OEM spec I am just baffled by the 40mm dimension it lists tho. EDIT: The ones previous that were to...

when I first got my supra had my brother helping me just put things together, He forgot to push the Inter-cooler tube from the turbo's outlet to the inter-cooler, it sounded just like that and could not be throttled until it was fixed. add this to the list, Check hoses and IC tubeing

So on another adventure! I grabbed some new Exhaust manifold studs from O'rileys to replace my old (nuts were seized and the studs just threaded out) Helicoiled the head everything good to go, Except the studs were about 10mm to short only had a few threads sticking past the exhaust manifold...

alright , I had an Idea of just flairing the flap side but just wanted to double check before I start removing material. I appreciate the info GC ^^ I do also have another waste gate control in the garage one that has an adjustable tension along the arm to the flap. I'm not a big fan of that...

you wouldn't happen to have a pic of how much you ported would you? Waiting on some parts and was curious if should just flair the port or if you enlarged the entire depth of the turbo's exhaust

Anyone know the Hose ID size of the valve cover to crank case vent hose? looks like a question mark forgot to grab it this morning :( http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=356945 33$ from Toyota just ventilation wont hurt to buy it local if possible

Don't feel alone I acquired mine and it was Frankenstein. But slow and steady I learned to get what's needed no half assing the supra is a fickle beast. But heat the hex bolts gently. Heat lamp and oil never fails, and the breaker bar but those #3 cylinder bolts (cover ones)usually meh unless...

14 MM hex I Believe Odd tho i Have all of those hex no bolt like your #6 I usually put a little High temp black around the rim to make sure that no oil seeps. what plugs have the oil ? just 6? because having that random bolt rather than the hex may be the issue.

I do believe so yeah, the black tang that rests the fork on the TOB lip. I'll grab a few pics tomorrow after work. Showing what Its doing also. Possibly forgetting something but everything looks ok

I'll reinstall fork after work today just to be safe. Might get another Slave on order also, If anyone knows other possible fix wont hurt to have an extra too

so I took off the slave cleaned it bled the system (was fairly dirty) reinstalled (double checked the dowel pin is in the notch of the fork ) bled while again while under and clutch pressed air removed tighten repeat. Still same result, While clutch pressed it is no where near to even pulling...

Kind of stumped here Just finished a rebuild dropped engine and tranny back in car I changed out the oem clutch with a stage 2 new pressure plate pilot bearing etc. the pressure plates side by side were same thickness just less slits and the clutch plate lighter and more of a grip material...

So, I kind of just want to lay out and ask a question as well. On the back side of the slope rebuilding and painting engine/bay etc. Was removing the pilot bearing last night to finally get the block off the stand and put the new stage 2 clutch back together. After watching the center race...

There is one bolt on the centre of the gear. It either sheared or is just loose if only moving slightly.

That pully I'm seeing in the pic is the oil pump gear. Loose you mean like it will move up and down all directions? Or just spins easy? If it's loose like all directions that would make some serious noise when turning over.

with the smell and overheat, Is there any sign of damaged wires on harness?